The most obvious stopover when headed to Zion National Park is Las Vegas. The glitz, lights and sound of coins dropping give great contrast to the sanctuary of the cathedral of sheer cliffs and tumbling rivers which lie beyond.
Zion is best experienced early, before the sun penetrates the gorge floor. Until October 30, visitors must travel by tram, but trams arrive in 7 minute intervals so it isn’t a problem and relieves the congestion inherent in a park that attracts visitors from all over the world. Almost each of the 8 or so tram stops offer a special walk or hike or attraction, a museum, lodge, restaurants and visitor center.
Everywhere the view is awesome. We were surrounded by hundreds of foreigners and seniors geared up in the latest hiking attire, topped with hats, footed with boots, and strapped with a variety of contraptions to hold water bottles, sun block and cameras. Oh, and everyone had a walking stick, a map, and a sense of purpose.
The last tram stop is where you can hike a mile and a half to the “narrows.” For the hearty, at that point, you continue on where the trail ends into the river. An assortment of hiking sticks are propped against the cliff wall, each having been cast off by hikers before.
We were told that upstream a ways these brave hikers walk in the chilly water up to their shoulders. It is also said that there are spots in the gorge where hikers can touch their elbows to the walls on both sides at once. It is suggested you get the hell out fast if a flash flood occurs.
Zion means “promised land,” and for centuries has served as a sanctuary to those who have entered. It is a canyon where the dramatic meets the subtle, and the scenery is awesome whether you look up, down or to the side. The sheer cliffs tower, the Virgin River tumbles swiftly by, the forming arches on cliff walls weep into clear pools and wildflowers blaze with color. While gazing at the large, don’t forget the small.
Zion Lodge
BETWEEN ZION AND BRYCE, A PLEASANT SURPRISE!
CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT
If you drive from Zion to Bryce without stopping at Cedar Breaks National Monument, you have missed something special! This huge natural ampitheater has been eroded out of variegated Pink Cliffs. The rim is over 10,000 feet above sea level. Our first stop was the visitor center then a walk out to Supreme Point where a man was helping his 93 year old father to the view. The old man talked about his trip to that very spot in the 1930s.
Sad to leave the beauty of the canyon we headed to Bryce, only to find that the drive paralleled all of the beautiful sites we had beheld so far. We were excited to see a brilliant display of fall colors along the way.
AND JUST WHEN WE THOUGHT WE HAD SEEN IT ALL, WE HAPPENED UPON THE UNIQUE MOQUI CAVE!
Expecting a silly cave with plastic gnomes and glitter, we were pleasantly surprised to find a truly historical spot. Greeted by Lex Chamberlain, we became emersed in history, rocks, fossils, a pub, marbles, carvings, photos, and much more.
Lex talked about his father, a man of many talents, who has since passed. He played professional football for the Pittsburg Steelers, was a sculptor, artist and rubbed elbows with movie stars who had bellied up to the cave pub while filming movies in the area. One such actor was Ronald Reagan. “Dad” created a sculpture of the star and on the wall is the thank you letter he received in return.
Photo of “Dad” posing with his sculptures
Some displays were whimsical:
“Dad’s” collection of dinosaur fossils found in the area was impressive:
As was his rock collection:
The cave is located on Hwy. 89 5.5 miles north of Kanab, Southern Utah. After perusing the gift shop, we said goodbye to Lex and headed for Bryce.
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK, LAND OF HOODOOS
Bryce Canyon National Park was established in 1928 and named after Ebenezer Bryce, a cattleman who settled in the area in 1875. Walking along the rim visitors look down at the 8,000 foot dropoff into a fairyland below. If Zion is a land of drama and magnificence, Bryce is a canyon of intimacy, bathed in blissful hues of baby cheek pink, tangerine, coral and peach.
At Zion it is somewhat daunting to look straight up sheer walls which seem to defy gravity, whereas at Bryce hikers cannot resist descending the canyon trails to become more closely acquainted with the hoodoos and spires.
The canyon is so inviting that we trekked to Sunrise Point at 6 a.m. and there we were surrounded by visitors from all over the world poised on the rim, cameras clicking.
Everywhere on this trip we have been surrounded by visitors from other countries. In the campground they are in groups camping in El Monte RV Rental rigs. Ruby’s Inn is the gathering place just out of Bryce. Here there is the RV park, motels, restaurants and gift shops. In the evening we had a “western” experience at Ebenezer’s. Here a bbq dinner is followed by a western show. We sat with two lovely young ladies visiting from Amsterdam. They are both doctors, so of course Alan had to ask them what they thought of ObamaCare. They said they were puzzled why anyone in the US would be against it. They have universal healthcare in Amsterdam and it works well. They said it is just a part of life.
We also noted that at the dinner, they displayed flags representing countries where the dinner guests came from for that night’s show. There were 14 flags for 14 countries, and Mexico wasn’t one of them!
We said goodbye to Bryce and headed on to the next leg of our journey: Lake Powell.