We were warned by the morning news: a storm on its way. Cold front descending, rain, snow, high winds. We packed a few extra warm things, hooked the trailer onto the truck and headed out to our ultimate destination of Death Valley for the Annual 49er Encampment at Furnace Creek. But first, a few fun camp spots along the way, some new to us.
Except for a few drops, we hit no rain, snow or winds. Our first stop was the traditional visit to Alien Jerky in Baker. Here we could load up on dried fruit and various UFO souvenirs. Turning off 15 onto Highway 197 under a clearing sky we headed for Tecopa Hot Springs. We hooked up at the County Hot Springs Campground, complete with hot tubs. Once caveat: they don’t allow swim suits.
Well, it’s not as kinky as it sounds. There are separate tubs for men and women – the roofless cold pools and the covered hot pools. There is a separate private hot pool for rent ($10/hr) for private bathing, couples ok. Big sign: no alcoholic beverages, no sexual activity. Yea, right!
One of the exciting events at the 49er encampment, where we planned to be in a few days, is the arrival of the wagon train. Surprise! They were camping at Tecopa at the same place we were.
A little disappointing though. We always thought these hardy souls toughed it across the desert from Utah in the same way the pioneers did in the 1800s. But many of the wagons were on flatbeds or pulled by trucks. Their wheels were rubber, not wood. But they were roughing it all the same – the horses and mules grazing in camp, tethered to a stake.
In a few days they will arrive at Furnace Creek, greeted by a cheering crowd. At that time the gals will dress in gingham dresses and bonnets with cowboy gear for the men.
Below is a photo of the arrival of one of the covered wagons at last year’s 49er Encampment:
Tecopa was once the largest native American settlement in the region because of its natural hot springs, abundant wildlife and fertile wetlands. It is near a series of trading routes later known as The Old Spanish Trail. In 1908, spurred by the mining boom, the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad built the Tecopa Station.
Here we stopped at various small lakes and sewage ponds, magnets to migratory birds. Below is Grimshaw Lake where we watched the ducks, a great blue heron and a shoveler.
CHINA RANCH
Just a few miles from Tecopa Hot Springs on the Old Spanish Trail Highway, Furnace Creek Road leads to China Ranch, a family-owned date ranch. The unpaved road is not too rough.
Walking around the area you can revel in the geology, botany, birds and history of early man in the environs. You’ll know when you are near the gift shop because the aroma of baking date muffins fills the air. Hand crafted gifts are for sale as are freshly picked dates of several varieties. Nearby the Amargosa River meanders.
This historic spot boasts celebrity guests:
The original date delivery truck. Could we call it a woody?
The area is open for exploration and hiking. We watched flocks of quail scurrying about. Below is the owners’ cottage.
The dates are treated with tender loving care. It looks like they are dressed up in their Sunday best.
SHOSHONE
A thriving little town, Shoshone is tourist friendly with a free museum, a craft sale, restrooms, a market/gift shop, and a small RV park/campground. It is known as the southern gateway to Death Valley.
The first thing we noticed was the price of gas: $5.25/gallon. Mostly the bikers were filling up. Nearby in the town of Pahrump the price was $3.30/gallon.
Caves such as the ones pictured above are plentiful in the Shoshone area. Dug in the soft hills of the washes in the area, they were used as housing for miners and vagabonds from the early 1900s through the 1960s.
Not much in the town of Shoshone. This saloon anchors the main street.
The Shoshone Museum has a wide selection of books on the area, and a particularly interesting and extensive exhibit about the women pioneers of the area.
Below is a geological oddity just out of Shoshone right on the highway. This obsidian layer tells a story.
PAHRUMP
After the small dusty towns of Tecopa and Shoshone, Pahrump (accent is on the rump) is quite the surprise. It is a little Las Vegas with an obvious lack of a sign ordinance. The predominant industries seem to be RV parks and casinos, as the town is in Nye County where gambling and prostition are legal.
We are camped in a Terrible place, Terrible Herbst that is. Hard to believe we are in the desert. The RV park is covered with manicured grass and hugs a man-made lake and lagoon.
The lake is stocked and dozens of ducks waddle around, qwacking all the while in a tone that is demanding a handout.
There is an ampitheater, a pool and spa. Adjacent to the RV park is a Terrible casino – in addition to the Terrible Casino in town. Last night it rained and our camp chairs were covered with ice. The storm has passed leaving very cold temperatures and a sky as big and blue as a tropical ocean. It is crisp but beautiful.
THE VAST STUNNING VALLEY OF DEATH
We never tire of camping in Death Valley. There is always a new place to explore. We entered the valley over Jubilee Pass so that we could behold its treasures along the road. Everyone stops at BADWATER to stand 285 feet below sea level, gaze acrross the badwater pond and the salt flats and look up to Telescope Peak towering over 11,000 feet.
THE DEATH VALLEY 49ER 62ND ANNUAL ENCAMPMENT
The event aims to foster appreciation of Death Valley as a rare desert environment having unique natural and cultural histories which played an important role in the settlement of the west, California and the Union. The 49ers sponsor this encampment each November to celebrate the pioneer spirit.
By the hundreds visitors arrive in every form of recreational vehicle. Sunset campground across the street from Furnace Creek Ranch fills, then the RVs spill into and fill the overflow (pictured below) We camped up the hill at Texas Spring – a delightful campground which blissfully prohibits the use of generators. At night the dark camp is lit only by a full moon. Campers use their batteries sparingly.
A few of the Encampment activities include entertainment by Chapparel, Belinda Gayle, Mary Kay and a host of other entertainers, in addition to the dog costume contest, gold panning, the craft and art show, the photography contest (Alan took a first in black and white, plus placed high in other categories), and the highlight of the weekend: THE PARADE. Alan marched along with the E Clampus Vitus contingent which passed around the flask and sang God Bless America.
This dog was dressed as a lobster!!
At the appointed time the wagon train which has traveled through the desert from Utah arrives and the crowd gathers to welcome them.
Later the horse patrol which has been camping and traveling from Ridgecrest reaches the Encampment. An enthusiastic crowd is there to greet them.
RHYOLITE
We made a quickie visit to Rhyolite on our way to Titus Canyon. This town had a population of over 10,000 in its heyday. Today there are a few foundations left. Some artists have moved in too. It’s a great spot to photograph and just kick around the area and ponder its history.
The bank building (above) is probably the most photographed foundation in the town.
Above Larry checks out the old train car.
The bottle house is a must see. Finally they took down the Jane Fonda Hate sign.
A new addition to town is some sort of art center. We perused the strange displays such as the spirit circle below. .
TITUS CANYON
THIS 27 MILE ONE WAY ROAD IS ONE OF THE MOST SCENICALLY DIVERSE CANYONS IN THE PARK. HERE YOU WILL FIND MULTI-COLORED VOLCANIC DEPOSITS, A GHOST TOWN, INDIAN PETROGLYPHS, BIGHORN SHEEP, AND DEEP WINDING NARROWS.
As the encampment came to an end, we enjoyed pancakes before departing.
Below the guys hang out at the covered wagon.
Saying goodbye to Death Valley, we traveled by way of Panamint Springs and spent a few days at one of our favorite campsites: Boulder Creek RV park in Lone Pine. Later on the way home we camped at the old 1000 trails rv park in Soledad Canyon and had a great dinner at the Vincent Gap Railroad Restaurant.