Eastern Sierra with COLOR & Cerro Gordo

With warm Fall weather the Eastern Sierra Nevada turns into lush colors and crowds dissipate.  Our trip was devoid of fish, but the lakes were sparkling, the cabins rustic and the trek to Cerro Gordo exciting.

After a restful night’s rest at the famous DOW VILLA we drove from Lone Pine for a short visit to the semi-ghost town of Keeler on the shore of what was the Owen’s Lake.


The road up to the mine is an experience in itself. And Cerro Gordo (Fat Hill) has a long and colorful history.  It is located on the western slope of the Inyo Mountains.


Along the precipitous road up the mountain a cable with buckets indicates how silver was lowered down the mountain. It is said the few town residents would use them to get groceries.

In previous time the last few hundred feet would offer a view of the famous American Hotel which burned down in June 2020. A few artifacts were salvaged. The owner plans to rebuild this relic and funds are being donated. 

Here the silver was loaded onto barges and taken across what was Owens Lake.

Black and white photos by Holiday Heller

To raise money to rebuild this historical ghost town, the owner has been offering tours.

HAPPY CAMP UNDER SIEGE

After a lovely visit to Happy Camp and enjoying the beautiful scenery we went home. Only a few weeks later the whole area was under siege. The Slater fire roared down from Oregon toward the town, outlying neighborhoods were decimated but town was saved.

This peaceful looking pasture lies between the out-of-control Slater fire and Casey and George’s ranch (Chambers Ranch). As the fire came closer things were looking bad. Meanwhile 159 homes in Happy Camp were destroyed while firefighters struggled to save the town of 900 people.

At the last minute George and friends lit a back fire on the field which stopped the oncoming fire. His property below the field was saved.

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A dash around CA – ocean to forests to Sierras

After lunch and loading up on Poke at Giovanni’s and a stop at the Avila Farmers Market, we drove through Cambria, grabbed an ice cream cone, and  checked into our room, just feet from the beach.

THE FIRESIDE INN

There is no more lovely a coast than BIG SUR. A windy adventurous road lined with unparalleled beauty.  Its hard to keep your eyes on the road!

ALWAYS A STOP TO SEE THE SEA ELEPHANTS

AND MORE SCENIC BEAUTY


A MOST ROMANTIC STOP IS THE NEPENTHE GIFT SHOP AND RESTAURANT.
May 17, 2016 · Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton frequented the restaurant while shooting their 1965 film The Sandpiper in Big Sur; the film includes a folk dancing scene. It is a must stop restaurant and gift shop on the Big Sur Coast. We had a nice lunch and I ordered my favorite beet salad. Alan stuck with the shrimp blt, while Holiday and I shared roasted Brussel sprouts.

 

AND THEN WE TRAVELED UP THE COAST TO SANTA CRUZ WHERE WE ENJOYED THE SEA & SAND HOTEL. DUE TO MYRIAD LOCAL FIRES, THE SKIES WERE GRAY AND AIR FULL OF AMBIENT SMOKE.

THE CHARMING AND HISTORIC BENBOW INN, GARBERVILLE


An evening cocktail hour with fois gras. We loved it but vowed to not do it again.

Dinner on the back patio alongside the river.

On the Oregon coast we watched a hang glider attempt a flight.

BROOKINGS, OREGON: Brookings is a city in Curry County, Oregon. It was named after John E. Brookings, president of the Brookings Lumber and Box Company, which founded the city in 1908.

It is a town lined with hotels and restaurants right on the coast with dynamic views and walkable beaches. We opted for the Beachfront Hotel and were not disappointed. Admittedly I didn’t walk the beach, but felt like it when on our balcony. We had a nice room, but my sister and her husband showed up with a suite!

Leaving the coast we took the inland road to Happy Camp.

Always fun to reach Happy Camp and look forward to several days of good eating, happy hours, and visiting with family.

ARRIVING AT HAPPY CAMP ON THE KLAMATH RIVER, WE WERE GREETED BY BIGFOOT. THEN IT WAS FISHING FOR STEELHEAD:

 

BACK AT THE CHAMBERS’ RANCH WE ENJOYED THE POOL, FIELD AND OLD GROWTH FOREST,

THE DAY’S HIGHLIGHT IS HAPPY HOURS FOLLOWED BY DINNER. FIRST NIGHT CASEY AND GEORGE MADE PAELLA ON THE BBQ.

 

OK, WE SIT DOWN FOR DINNER. GEORGE RUNS OVER TO THE GARDEN,PICKS EARS OF CORN, SHUCKS THEM ON THE WAY BACK THROWING THE SHUCKINGS TO THE ANXIOUS AWAITING COWS. AT THE BBQ HE THROWS THEM IN THE BOILING WATER AND THEN SERVES THE WITH DINNER. ALAN ATE 3 AT ONE SITTING.

Most everything starts in the garden.

FROM HAPPY CAMP AND GARRETTS 2,3 AND 6 TO THE HOME OF GARRETT 7 – GOLD RIVER.

KIRBY’S TURN TO BBQ

A family evening Kirby, Cindy, Kennedy Cassidy and a special appearance by Brittany.

SAID ADIOS AND HEADED FOR TAHOE.

A NIGHT AT HARRAHS.

One excellent stop on the way home – CONVICT LAKE! Our cabin – Black Spot – was delightful and adding to the experience, we had dinner at the Convict Lake Restaurant.


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When the forecast says 107, head for the coast

With the pandemic in full swing we packed our car with clothes, food, our daughter, and sanitizing equipment and headed for the Central Coast.  Turns out it was the perfect choice.  A stop in Ventura at a fruit stand, then lunch at Adians at the Channel Islands Harbor.

The Avila Beach Farmers Market rendered fresh fruit, leafy veges, and other treats.  We bought plenty but planned to return on our way back.

Hitting Pismo Beach walked around town and enjoyed the beach.

We checked into the Seacrest Hotel, only yards from the waves, and vowed to spend as much time as possible on the balcony.

DINNER AT THE SPYGLASS INN IN PISMO.  ALL YOU CAN EAT CRAB.

Headed to San Simeon we stopped at Morro Bay, specifically at Giovanni’s.

San Simeon

 

Further north, lunch at Ragged Point.

Our room at the Best Western Cavalier Hotel – sweeping ocean view, grassy park, beach access. Great balcony.

Eastern Sierra Nevada mid pandemic


After three months of basically home quarantine, our thoughts turn to the beauty and freedom of the lovely Eastern Sierra Nevada. So we call the family and invite them along for a camping trip. And we are off for an adventure and hopefully some fish!

First stop the semi ghost town of Randsburg, quite buttoned up at this time. We stopped at the city jail to deposit grand daughter Hailey, but she escaped.

Checking in to Boulder Creek we are disappointed the pool is closed due to the pandemic so we pop over to Diaz Lake.  Hailey tries her luck at fishing:

Alan tries his luck at swimming.

We were accompanied by several yellow-headed blackbirds. One swooped down an stole a french fry out of my hand. There were males, females and several young.

Boulder Creek Campground was open at about 1/3 capacity. Pool and spa closed. Jim and Linda came for a socially acceptable distant visit and we exchanged stories about our days and friends at Hollywood High School back in the 60s.

Jim Newton – now a resident of Lone Pine. Below we reminisce.

Boulder Creek is home to more than a dozen desert tortoises.

 

Heading north we decided to drive up to Whitney Portals to fish in the pond and partake of the humongas pancakes but the road was closed at the start of the Lucy & Dezi Long Long Trailer scenic road. We opted to take Hailey on an adventure through the Alabama Hills on the Movie Road. Jim took us to sites we had missed before.

Moving north we checked into McGee Creek RV Park – a jumping off point for adventures beyond.


Fishing at Gull lake. As usual NO FISH.

FAMILY TIME AT BENTON CROSSING. SURVIVING GALE FORCE WINDS.

 

ENOUGH FISH FOR AN APPETIZER

Lots of social distancing in the Desert! Anza Borrego, Blythe, Lake Havasu

Flaunting stay home orders, we took off for Anza Borrego. The lockdown was obvious as the park was closed – meaning, all side roads blocked, all campgrounds closed, off road rv dry camp sites closed, restrooms closed. We managed to pull over to take wildflower photos.

Borrego Springs pretty much closed – restaurants take out only, shops closed but Pablitos was open for pick up food and margaritas.

Palm Canyon Hotel & RV park was open – we have long time reservations. The pool was open, and good thing because it was 100 degrees out.

 

Moving on we headed for Blythe for a stay at the Cove RV Park. Pool was closed but our campsite was right over a little beach with a lovely river view.

Leaving Blythe we drove to Lake Havasu – same scenario but we found a nice rv park and stayed the night. Had a view of the lake .

Poppies in Lancaster; Kill Bill Church

The poppy preserve may be closed, and we are all on a stay home mandate, but its hard to resist this superbloom not far from home. Head to the preserve and before you get there you will be in the midst of miles of gold under a blue sky.

 

 

AND SO, AFTER A FEW HOURS IN THE MIDST OF CALIFORNIA BEAUTY WE MOVE ON A FEW MILES TO THE FAMOUS KILL BILL CHURCH. The lonely Sanctuary Adventist Church was cast as the Two Pines Wedding Chapel for the wedding massacre in Quentin Tarantino’s “Kill Bill Vol. 1” (2003)

 

Headed home we visited Kimball (masks on) in his Juniper forest home in Pearblossom.

PANDEMIC GETAWAY AT A SAFE DISTANCE

The stay home mandate had only been in effect for a week, but it seemed like a month. The sun was shining, and a brilliant blue sky dotted with puffy clouds beckoned to us. I thought of what Governor Newsom said in a briefing: “If you need to go outside to get some exercise, do that, but don’t do it in a group.” Ok, he didn’t say you couldn’t drive or have an outside picnic, so I packed a lunch and off we went. We decided if we saw crowds, we’d turn around.
Headed up Highway 39 above Azusa, our first stop was to visit the bald eagles, nesting near San Gabriel Dam. There was one person in the pullout, and we chatted from the required distance. We learned he was from Orange County and visiting for the first time to get pictures of an eagle. As we stood there, the male eagle flew overhead, and the lone man snapped away. We left our card on his car windshield and the next day he emailed some photos of the eagles.

We continued up the highway turning east on the East Fork Road. Soon we found a vacant pull out and a perfect lone picnic table overlooking the San Gabriel Reservoir. We sprayed down the table with disinfectant, spread our tablecloth and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. For a while we completely forgot the nightmare we are living.

Cars flew up the Highway, but not as many as you would expect on a Saturday. Camera in hand, we pulled off where we could see what is left of Follows Camp, remembering the good times we had there. Years ago, we visited the camp for a tour and met the infamous Flo Flo Peck. It was in 1896 that Englishman Ralph Follows established the most popular hostelry in the San Gabriel Canyon. After his death in 1926, Sedley Peck and his wife Dolores “Flo Peck” restored the camp as a mountain resort, adding a restaurant and store. Previously guests arrived by the four-horse Follows Stage for a twelve-mile trip which required numerous river crossings. In 1925 the Canyon Road was paved, and automobiles could traverse it. Some say that was an improvement, but others believe it ended the historic and romantic flavor leading to the camp’s demise.
Over the years, visitors ate at the camp, found goldmining equipment in the little store, and paid for tours of the grounds. They could meet Flo Flo who talked about her younger days when she cooked for President Eisenhower.
In January 2005 record rainfalls wiped out three bridges, stranding 135 residents living at the camp. The floods washed away the wine cellar spilling dozens of bottles of wine into the river. With no one coming to the aid of those stranded, they built a dirt ramp over the main bridge and for a while these artists, retirees and others enjoyed the solitude of the camp. But alas, it was deemed uninhabitable and deserted. It is now history.
On our ride back to Duarte we continued up the canyon turning off on the Glendora Mountain Road to Horse Canyon Saddle and then down into Glendora.
. After a day of adventure, we had no close contact with anyone and felt comfortable with our adventure. As a matter of habit, we pulled over at The Donut Man but opted to not join the long line.
So, enjoy staying home, but if you cannot handle it, a little drive could lift your spirits and satisfy you that the world is still out there and functioning.

QUARTZSITE PARKER JOSHUA TREE

 

Every year in January or February, we head for the rockhound’s paradise. Since the 1960s, the Arizona town of Quartzsite, 20 miles east of the Colorado River, sees its population swell from a few hundred to millions of visitors, many of which are snowbirds. The mild weather is a draw as well as the border to border flea market.

In the market for rocks? It’s a rockhound’s dream. Native American basketry, gems, rugs, minerals, fossils and cow skulls abound. You can walk around for hours. Sadly, the naked bookman of Oasis Books passed away last year, and it looks like the bookstore will soon be gone. We send our condolences to his wife. He was quite a character.

AND THE WORLD’S BIGGEST SERVING OF CURLY FRIES

Although many opt to pull off into dirt fields and dry camp, others stay in campgrounds. We prefer to camp in Blythe, about 30 miles North, and enjoy The Cove Campground. The sites are on the river and amenities include free pancakes on Sunday morning, a pool and jacuzzi.

On Sunday we drove to the nearby Cibola Wildlife Preserve, located in the flood plain of the lower Colorado River, hoping to get a glimpse of the Sandhill Cranes. After a time at the excellent Visitor’s Center, we took the Canada Goose Drive which offers excellent opportunity for wildlife viewing. Millions of birds cover the area, and yes, we saw the cranes. Burrowing owls can be seen along the road.

Settled down for a picnic at the refuge, my phone beeped. Turning it on was a shock! Kobe Bryant died in a helicopter crash. How could this be? So much life snuffed out in a minute. We sadly followed the unfolding news.

From Blythe we headed to Parker to make our annual donation to the Native Americans through the Blue Water Casino. There is a campground there but we opted to just park out in the surrounding hills and “rough it.”

Couldn’t resist a night at Jumbo Rocks Campground in Joshua Tree, reminiscent of the days we took the kids there and tried to keep up with them as they trotted up rocks. Beautiful weather.

 

Drove through the park and headed for the Salton Sea but opted to go home because the winds were howling and dust flying.

Annual 49er Encampment Death Valley to Lone Pine

From all over they came to Death Valley to honor the 49ers. Concerts. parades, contests and historical talks and walks. But the re-assembly of the 20 mule team was a highlight for sure. This exciting display was in addition to the covered wagon brigade that arrived from Utah.

Below are the wagons in which the borax was kept and transported by the mule team.

It was about 5:30 a.m. and park visitors assembled at Zabriskie Point, cameras ready. An historic tradition in this park. And the sun rose, as expected:

 

Another must in this spacious and dynamic park is a walk on the dunes. Watch for snakes!

Campsite conversation and honey whisky:

The 49er weekend highlight – the PARADE. A dud this year – and the usual ragtag appearance of E Clampus Vitus was a no show. They were represented by one clamper:

A FAVORITE DEATH VALLEY STOP IS CHINA RANCH.

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WATER? ACROSS THE VALLEY IS THE TECOPA HOT SPRINGS AREA AND A LOVELY LAKE.

ANOTHER MUST-VISIT IS THE REMNANTS OF THE MINING TOWN OF RHYOLITE. THE DEPOT STILL STANDS BUT IS NO LONGER OPEN.

OUT OF CHARACTER IS A BIZARRE MUSEUM FEATURING A MAZE  AND A BICYCLIST

AND TO THE NORTH, THE SCENERY CHANGES. LUNCH AT PANAMINT SPRINGS THEN ENJOYED THE FALL COLORS OF THE LONE PINE AREA!

A fishing trip to the portals was a laugh. The pond was empty. The waterfall frozen. The café closed. But the fall colors brilliant.

THE END