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December 21, 2007
EVERYTHING GOES BETTER WITH CHOCOLATE: with recipes and book recommendations
By Natalie Haughton
Daily News Food Editor
Chocolate never goes out of season.
And the holidays are just the time to explore the explosion of premium chocolates, with more flavors than ever for baking and just plain indulging.
With a bunch of recently released, fashionable chocolate cookbooks, you can jazz up holiday festivities in the sweetest way … with enticing cookies, cakes, candies, pies and more.
Marcel Desaulniers, author and chef of "I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas" (Wiley; $29.95), can help you impress family and friends with a collection of more than 70 delectable, colorful creations. This is the 10th cookbook from Desaulniers, co-owner of The Trellis Restaurant in Williamsburg, Va., for the last 27 years, where he was also executive chef until five years ago. "This is the first book that is dessert-related that doesn't have one of my mother's recipes in it," says the sweets guru. "She is 89 and still bakes."
Unlike his six previous books centered on chocolate or desserts, recipes in this volume are "simple and straightforward but still loaded with 'WOW!' " he says, and some can be frozen and shipped. All were tested in a home kitchen with top-quality ingredients and equipment available in local stores.
While many pastry chefs temper chocolate (a melting and cooling technique used to stabilize chocolate to make it shiny), and Desaulniers has included a quick method in some of his previous cookbooks, the process is not used in this recipe compilation.
"Tempering, even for someone who has a culinary education, is not the easiest thing in world."
Desaulniers recommends melting chocolate in the microwave.
"For years, I wouldn't allow a microwave oven in my home, even though my wife begged for one; she doesn't cook, only makes popcorn. I melted chocolate in a double boiler."
Eventually he relented, and now he is a fan of microwaving, at least for this task.
"It is the best, quickest and safest method," he said.
Common directions call for using a glass bowl, uncovered, on medium power. But to be safe, because microwave ovens vary, he errs on the side of using lower power settings.
The book calls for mostly semisweet along with some unsweetened chocolate. "For almost all recipes, semisweet is best. It's a benchmark item most people are familiar with. I love bittersweet, personally, but for the most part you can interchange it with semisweet.
"Everyone's (each company's) chocolate tastes different. There are myriad chocolates one can invest money in, but if a recipe has lots of ingredients such as cream, butter, eggs, etc., a simpler straightforward chocolate is fine."
When buying chocolate, make sure it is real chocolate, he stresses. "Reading the ingredient list on the package is key," Desaulniers says. "The item that needs to be in chocolate is cocoa butter." If palm kernel oil or coconut oil is on the label, it's not real chocolate.
"Lindt Chocolate Passion: Lindt's Maitres Chocolatiers Share Their Recipes and Techniques" (Lindt & Sprungli USA; $35), also offers many luxurious chocolate possibilities. New Hampshire-based Lindt master chocolatier Ann Czaja has been with the company three years, including a year and a half in Switzerland. She contributed several recipes to the 75 in the book along with eight other Lindt master chocolatiers around the world. The book, with beautiful color photographs, was an outgrowth of "people asking the company if they could cook, bake with and melt Lindt chocolate bars," she says.
Each recipe, tested with home, not commercial, equipment, was designed to be user-friendly, unintimidating and readily reproduced by home cooks, Czaja says. Bittersweet, milk, white and the Lindt Origins line of chocolates are used in the recipes, with the emphasis on bittersweet.
She recommends storing chocolate in a cool, dry place, at temperatures of 60 to 68 degrees and humidity of about 50 percent. Otherwise store chocolate in the refrigerator, wrapped and sealed in an airtight bag. "If the chocolate has been opened, make sure it is wrapped in foil and placed in an airtight bag," she advises. Before using, allow it to come to room temperature slowly to prevent condensation on the surface. "Never re-refrigerate chocolate once it has reached room temperature."
If chocolate develops gray surface streaks (caused by the cocoa butter rising to the surface), it's safe to eat, but not recommended for baking.
Although Czaja also prefers to melt chocolate in the microwave oven, she cautions cooks who use a double boiler to make sure the water is just barely simmering so the steam will not condense and drip into the chocolate, causing it to seize up.
"If you are going to enjoy chocolate, make sure it is premium," she says. "Life is too short for ordinary chocolate."
RECIPES
Trellis pastry chef Heather Lenhardt, a Johnson and Wales University graduate, shared the recipe for her mom's irresistible toffee:
MRS. LENHARDT’S CHOCOLATE ALMOND TOFFEE
2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon pieces
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
2 cups sliced or slivered almonds or coarsely chopped whole blanched almonds, toasted
4 ounces semisweet baking chocolate, melted
Combine sugar, butter, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan over medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar and melt butter. Bring to a boil, stirring only once or twice to prevent sticking and burning (frequent stirring causes the toffee to crystallize), and continue to cook until mixture reaches a temperature of 360 degrees F and becomes dark caramel in color, about 12 minutes. Use a digital thermometer for an accurate temperature reading of the mixture.
Remove from heat and wait about 10 seconds for bubbles in mixture to dissipate, then use a heat-resistant silicone spatula to fold in 1 cup almonds. Pour mixture into a baking sheet with sides, and use spatula to spread mixture evenly. Cool toffee at room temperature 10 minutes, then refrigerate 20 minutes.
Remove toffee from refrigerator. Use an offset spatula to spread melted chocolate over surface of toffee, then sprinkle with remaining 1 cup almond pieces. Refrigerate toffee about 30 minutes, until hard, then break into pieces. Store in a tightly sealed plastic container at room temperature 2 to 3 weeks (shininess of chocolate will diminish over time). Makes 2 1/2 pounds.
From "I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas," by Marcel Desaulniers.
WHITE CHOCOLATE BARK WITH PISTACHIOS AND DRIED CRANBERRIES
Red cranberries and green pistachios embedded in white chocolate make this bark especially festive for the winter holidays.
4 bars (3.5 ounces EACH) white chocolate (Lindt Swiss Classic), chopped
1/2 cup pistachios
1/2 cup dried cranberries
Temper white chocolate (or melt in microwave … see editor's note below). Add pistachios and dried cranberries; stir to combine. Spread to thickness desired on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Refrigerate 5 to 10 minutes, remove, and let set in a cool place. Store in an airtight container, in a cool place. Break up prior to serving or giving as a gift. Makes about 1 pound bark.
Editor's note: This bark can be made WITHOUT tempering the white chocolate. Melt it in a glass bowl, uncovered, in a microwave oven on 50 percent power, starting with 1 minute, then stirring and adding 20 to 30 second increments until completely melted. Watch carefully. Once melted, proceed as directed in recipe above.
From "Lindt Chocolate Passion: Lindt's Maitres Chocolatiers Share Their Recipes and Techniques," by Lindt & Sprungli (USA).
OATMEAL SABLE
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter, softened
1 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 2/3 cups flour
3/4 cup oats
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 bar (3.5 ounces) white chocolate, chopped
1/2 bar (3.5 ounces) milk chocolate, melted, to decorate
Cream butter, powdered sugar and vanilla. Add flour, oats and baking powder and mix until combined. Stir in chopped white chocolate. Roll dough into a log shape, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
To bake, cut cookies approximately 1/4-inch thick and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes or until cookies just begin to brown slightly at edges. Cool on a wire rack. When cookies are completely cooled, drizzle with melted milk chocolate. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.
From "Lindt Chocolate Passion: Lindt's Maitres Chocolatiers Share Their Recipes and Techniques," by Lindt & Sprungli (USA).
GOLLY POLLY'S DOODLES
Polly Conway, who served a four-month externship at The Trellis while a student at The Culinary Institute of America, developed these.
DOUGH:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon pieces and softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup creamy peanut butter
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
FILLING:
1/4 cup creamy peanut butter
1/4 cup powdered sugar
To make the Dough, line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper. Sift together flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt onto a large piece of parchment or wax paper.
Place soft butter, 1/2 cup granulated sugar and 1/4 cup peanut butter in bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low 1 minute, then on medium 1 minute more. Stop and scrape down sides of bowl and paddle. Mix on medium-high 1 minute. Scrape down again. Add egg and vanilla and beat on medium 30 seconds; scrape down again once incorporated. Turn mixer to low and gradually add dry ingredients; mix until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Remove bowl from mixer and use a rubber spatula or your hands to finish mixing ingredients until thoroughly combined. Refrigerate dough (not more than 20 minutes or it will be difficult to shape) while making filling.
To make the Filling, place 1/4 cup peanut butter and powdered sugar in a clean bowl of a stand electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low 20 seconds, then beat on medium 10 seconds. Remove bowl from mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing until ingredients are thoroughly combined. Divide into 17 level teaspoons onto a piece of parchment or wax paper. Roll each portion into a smooth, round ball.
Using 1 heaping tablespoon or 1 level #50 ice-cream scoop, portion 17 pieces of dough. Roll each portion of dough into a smooth round ball, then flatten each ball in palm of your hand into a 3-inch-diameter circle. Using your thumb, make a small indentation in center of dough. Place a filling ball in indentation, then fold dough around filling and roll it into a smooth, round ball. Roll balls in remaining 1/4 cup granulated sugar to lightly coat.
Place Doodles on prepared baking sheet about 1 inch apart widthwise and 2 inches apart lengthwise. Bake on the center rack of a preheated 375-degree oven 6 minutes (that time is right!), until barely firm. (Overbaking will cause these cookies to become hard.) Remove cookies from oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool to room temperature. Store in a tightly sealed plastic container at room temperature 7 to 10 days or in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Makes 17 (1 1/2-inch) round cookies.
From "I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas," by Marcel Desaulniers.
BETH'S MOCHA MADNESS COOKIES
The inspiration for this cookie came our way thanks to Beth Armstrong of Marlborough, Mass.
2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon pieces and softened
1 cup tightly packed dark brown sugar
2 large eggs
3 ounces semisweet baking chocolate, melted
1/4 teaspoon instant espresso powder, dissolved in 2 tablespoons warm water
2 teaspoons vanilla
8 ounces dark chocolate–covered espresso beans, coarsely chopped (1 1/2 cups)
For garnish: 4 ounces semisweet baking chocolate, melted
Line 3 baking sheets with parchment or wax paper. Sift together flour, baking soda and salt onto a large piece of parchment or wax paper. Place butter and brown sugar in bowl of a stand electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on medium 2 minutes, then stop and scrape down sides of bowl and paddle. Mix again on medium 2 minutes, then scrape down again. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix on medium until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Scrape down again. Add 3 ounces melted chocolate and beat on medium 15 seconds, until incorporated. Turn mixer to lowest speed and gradually add dry ingredients; mix until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add dissolved espresso and vanilla and mix on low until thoroughly combined. Remove bowl from mixer, add espresso beans and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing ingredients until thoroughly combined.
Using 3 slightly heaping tablespoons or 1 level #20 ice-cream scoop, portion 10 or 11 cookies on each baking sheet, spaced about 5 inches apart widthwise and 2 inches apart lengthwise. Bake baking sheets on top and center racks of a preheated 325-degree 12 minutes, switching the sheets between top and center racks and rotating each sheet 180 degrees halfway through the baking. Remove from the oven and cool cookies on sheets 5 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool to room temperature. Repeat with remaining cookie dough, as necessary, once the baking sheets cool (hold the dough at room temperature).
For garnish, use a teaspoon to drizzle thin lines of melted chocolate in a zigzag fashion over tops of cool cookies. Refrigerate for a few minutes to set chocolate before serving. Store cookies in a tightly sealed plastic container at room temperature 5 to 6 days or in refrigerator 7 to 10 days (bring the cookies to room temperature before eating). Makes 32 (3-inch) cookies.
From "I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas," by Marcel Desaulniers.
MORE CHOCOLATE BOOKS
"The Ghirardelli Chocolate Cookbook: Recipes and History from America's Premier Chocolate Maker" (Ten Speed Press; $18.95).
The more than 80 recipes in this volume with lots of glorious full-page color photos range from simple to complex. Included are ideas for everyday indulging as well as special celebrations. Some come from chocolate masters at Ghirardelli and fans of the chocolate as well as San Francisco Bay Area pastry chefs. Recipes call for a variety of different chocolates and products available at grocery and mass merchandise stores, from chips and bars to cocoa and flavored (raspberry, caramel) chocolate squares. Numerous tempting cookies, bars, cupcakes, tortes, pies, tarts, candies, breads and drinks are in here, as well as a special section on hosting a chocolate tasting party.
"Enlightened Chocolate," by Camilla V. Saulsbury (Cumberland House; $22.95).
This book, with several mini color photos in the front, features 200 mostly easy recipes with dark chocolate and unsweetened cocoa powder. Both sweet and savory creations are included along with nutritional information for each. Braised Cauliflower and Cabernet-Chocolate BBQ Sauce anyone? Chocolate French Toast, Chocolate Whiskey Pie and Chocolate Truffle Tart sound better. Suit yourself. "Eat more chocolate … it's good for you," writes the author.
"Green & Black's Chocolate Recipes: From the Cacao Pod to Cookies, Desserts and Savory Dishes," written and compiled by Caroline Jeremy (Kyle Books; $19.95).
Green & Black's, a British company that has been producing organic chocolates since 1991, now sells its wares at Target. This volume, an update of a book first published in England in 2004, includes more than 100 sweet and savory recipes and is sprinkled with beautiful color photographs throughout. It has 20 new recipes from U.S. chefs and food experts, among them Rick Bayless, Emily Luchetti, David Libovitz and Elizabeth Karmel. All recipes use U.S. measurements.
Posted by Steven Rosenberg at December 21, 2007 12:30 PM
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