Recently in Monrovia Category

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

Entering Wang's was, well, interesting.

There's neither a service counter inside nor a podium of any sort, so while standing at the entrance for about many minutes I thought I'd been accidentally dipped in invisible ink.

Maybe there actually were only a handful people working that night, but the half-empty dining room - which had only about six tables occupied - didn't seem to warrant the lack of attention.

Eventually we did manage to catch someone's curiosity and found ourselves at a table, where we perused the menu and decided upon the Mandarin dinner, at $13.95 per person, which included a choice of soup and two entrees and some appetizers.

There were two of us, so the meal seemed a perfect fit. We opted for Hot and Sour Soup to start things off. When it arrived I was a bit worried because it came with a very strong smell of sesame oil. I was happy when I tasted it, though, to discover that it was the same soup I'm familiar with.

Shortly afterward, a plate with wontons, egg rolls and foil-wrapped chicken showed up.

It was here that I discovered that Wang's food seemed to only have one temperature. Hot. Screaming hot. Hot enough that Dante might have seen it served in the inner ring of the seventh circle.

It's almost as if the temperature was supposed to take your mind off the fact that the food was lacking in the flavor department.

Had my eyes been closed, it would have been difficult to tell the difference between the vegetable egg roll, the wonton and the fried wonton skins that were delivered as an appetizer  - tasting kind of like deep-fried paper. The small piece of baked chicken, however, was pretty good. The problem was that it was minuscule, about the size of my thumb.

Then the entrees arrived. The best part of the entrees was the shrimp. Not the whole dish, but the individual crustaceans. So it became a bit of a race to see who could get the most shrimp, without being obvious that we were trying to out-shrimp each other.

I was also trying to figure out why the chow mein arrived in a pie plate. Not the tin type, but a glass pie plate, while the beef dish had a normal serving dish.

But I couldn't even think about that, as I was busy attempting to perform a miracle with the soy sauce (red, not green), salt and pepper that were on the table.

I figured out the right proportion after about 10 minutes - a splash of soy sauce, three shakes of pepper - to add at least a semblance of taste to the dishes.

I have to admit, that what I did like about Wang's was that the restaurant has a full bar with some pretty decent drinks, not typically found in Chinese restaurants in the Valley.

And by the end of the night, I needed one.

Wang's is located at 120 E. Lemon Ave. in Monrovia. For information, call (626) 303-3071.

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

After a visit to the Mediterranean Garden Grill in Monrovia, I believe I've found a new favorite location for Middle Eastern food in the Valley.

While I often find myself dining along Myrtle Avenue, or Huntington Drive, I drove around town, looking for something new and exciting, and happened upon this restaurant, located next door to the Aztec Hotel.

At first I was a bit confused after walking inside. The dining room is designed to look like an anteroom and has the feel of a large covered patio for outdoor dining. The ceiling is even covered with faux grape vines. And when I tried to walk in the direction of what I thought was the "indoor dining" section it turned out to be the kitchen.

But after I recovered from my discombobulation, I did make it to a table where I ordered the $6.50 fried kibbeh appetizer.

When it arrived - along with some piping hot pita bread - garnished with lemon wedges I decided to accept the invitation to sprinkle lemon juice over them, despite the fact that I can't recall any other ground beef dishes that work well with added citrus.

I'm glad I did, though. The kibbeh (pronounced kib-bay) was seasoned well and the meat tasted more like ground steak.

Deciding on an entree, however, was harder than I thought. My first instinct was to go for the $22.00 Sauteed Frog Legs, however my dining companion would have had a conniption watching me eat a green amphibian. Next time I think I'm going to go alone, or find a kindred who wants some "ribbet" satisfaction.

They also offer $22.00 Sauteed Quail, in a recipe that seems like the Cajun-style, chardonnay-sautee'd version I'm familiar with, kebabs and shawarma that can be served as a sandwich, or an entree in the $6 to $10 range, as well as salads, falafel and other standard Mediterranean fare.

I settled on the $12.99 pan-flamed salmon served on rice, though for an extra $2 the rice may be substituted for marinated spinach.

The salmon arrived with an abundance of garlic and lemon, which is just the way I like it, and though it was a thin fillet it was very juicy, which to me, signified that the folks in the kitchen know what they're doing.

The vegetables and rice that accompanied the salmon were good as well and I thought that the latter was buttered rice. But after inquiring with the staff, I learned that the restaurant doesn't use butter and it had been cooked with olive oil.

I later found out that the restaurant's many windows, and patio-style atmosphere are conducive to hookah, which is available for $15 with a dozen or so different varieties of honey and molasses flavored tobacco.

Mediterranean Garden Grill is located at 335 W. Foothill Blvd. in Monrovia. They are open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, closed from 2:30 to 5 p.m each day except Sunday which is open from 11 am. to 8 p.m. For information, call (626) 301-0555 or visit www.mediterraneangardengrill.com .

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

The best way for a restaurant to develop a following is to wow you within the first few minutes of sitting down at your table.

I had such an experience at Los Gueros last week after happening upon them while strolling down Myrtle Avenue with a rumbling stomach.

I've actually known about the restaurant for years, however. They were located in a large, barn-sized building in Pasadena for such a short while - at least it seemed that way to me - that I didn't get a chance to visit before they closed. I remember now that I was told of their Monrovia relocation, but it obviously faded from my memory.

So, a few seconds after being seated at one of their outdoor tables, I decided to order guacamole to complement the chips and salsa.

Literally, a few seconds after that, a guacamole cart was wheeled over and a staff member started peeling and mashing avocados, mixing jalapenos, onions, tomato, lime, salt and pepper into a healthy green mixture that doubled as a conversation piece, since everybody walking down the street felt compelled to comment on how delicious it looked. 

It was so good, in fact, that I completely forgot about the menu, and wasn't ready to order for a little while. But I eventually decided on carne asada enchiladas.

I wondered if the main course would arrive in the same three-minute window that the guacamole appeared, but it wasn't quite that lightning fast.

The best thing about their menu, whether lunch or dinner, is that the most expensive items are about $13. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and have a bar.

I even tried a banana margarita, to satisfy my curiosity. It was just okay, and I wasn't too crazy about it. But I think it's because I generally think the only time bananas should be liquefied is when they are put into a smoothie.

I quizzed my server about the name, Los Gueros, which to those of us who speak Spanish, might seem an odd name. According to him, however, the Frenchman who started the business earned the moniker `Guero,' which then led to the restaurant's name.

But back to the food. Whenever I dine at a Mexican food establishment, I judge the meal by the quality of one simple element of the meal. (Interestingly enough, it's the same for Chinese food.) 

The rice. It's simple to prepare, but too many times in my dining experiences I end up at places that serve dry, hard rice, and I've had to write them off.

I'm happy to say that the beans and rice at Los Gueros were great. And the asada steak was well-seasoned and marinated. I'm looking forward to sampling more of their menu.

And ordering the guacamole again.

Los Gueros, located at 423 S. Myrtle Ave. in Monrovia, are open from 8:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday an Saturday  and 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

For more information, call (626) 358-0200.

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

Something Healthy does something simple in Monrovia.

The most expensive menu item is $7 and their fare can be summed into five groups: Panini sandwiches, wraps, soup, salad and fruit.

Located in a shopping center on Shamrock Avenue that seems to share the healthy-living philosophy - with a gym and health-food store (ignore that fried chicken place on the corner) - Something Healthy is a 10-table restaurant where everything is handmade.

On my first visit to the restaurant I decided to try a $7 tuna melt on whole wheat bread (sourdough is the second option). 

I'll admit that I didn't read the fine print on the menu, so it came as a surprise when I tasted the very powerful flavor of rosemary. 

While unexpected, it wasn't a bad addition to to the fish. Generally I'm used to the herb on poultry potatoes and other meats, but don't think I've ever had it on tuna. On this sandwich, however, it was the perfect ingredient. 

And of course, as I looked closely at the menu, I noticed "smoky rosemary aioli" listed in the description.

I made my sandwich a combo by adding potato chips and homemade iced tea and it was then that I noticed that all of the chips available were baked varieties of popular brands. And the iced tea offered - that day the choices were Mango Lassi, Cherry Raspberry and Blood Orange - are bottomless, and served sweetened or unsweetened.

I had this fear that unsweetened tea from a healthy food place was the equivalent of water, with three drops of flavor, but I'm happy to say that I was proven wrong.

The Cherry Raspberry was my first pick - and probably my new favorite tea - and I had to try a second on the refill, which was the blood orange. Both were flavored very well, and though I ordered them sweetened, it wasn't at all over sugared.

With each sandwich or wrap comes a side salad and it turned out to be a real salad - none of that non-nutritional iceberg stuff here - and dressing made from scratch.

The next dish I tried was the southwestern turkey wrap, which contained lettuce, onion, corn, tomato, hummus and salsa.

The salsa was only slightly spicy in my opinion (to me it felt like 400 Scoville units) but there are some lightweights who might actually feel the burn. I did find myself wishing that there was less lettuce and more turkey, but that could be because I was hungry that day.

Next time I'll have to try one of the soups. They were advertising some sort of southwestern chowder and I hope they have it the next time I visit.

Something Healthy is at 1014 S. Shamrock Ave. in Monrovia.

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

Things were going so well at Cafe Massilia until I made a terrible mistake.

I chose to visit this fairly new French restaurant in Monrovia early on a Sunday morning, which happened to coincide with the only day the restaurant serves breakfast, but opted to sample dishes from the lunch menu instead.

I decided to begin with the $7 Soupe de la Corniche, the restaurant's onion soup (In a French restaurant, French Onion Soup is simply called onion soup) and it arrived in a ramekin with toasted French bread and parmesan cheese.

This style of soup is one of my favorites and what I generally look for is the right type of cheese, which, for me, is the kind that doesn't turn into a mile-long, unbreakable strand when eating it with a spoon.

Cafe Massilia's version had the right amount of sweetness, and the cheese and French bread.

My lunch companion - the best part about doing reviews like this - chose the vegetable soup of the day, cauliflower soup, which I have to admit was very good.

Now I should probably point out that cauliflower is my second-favorite vegetable. My favorite? Every other one. 

I'm happy to report that this soup was seasoned so well that I wouldn't have had any qualms about ordering a portion for myself on my next visit.

Before I get to the main course, and my grand error, I'll tell you about the restaurant itself. Located near the corner of Myrtle and Lemon avenues, it has occupied the site of another, now-defunct French restaurant for the past six months.

The maitre d'/co-owner Chris Giovanelli keeps French music playing - everything from "La Mer," to the French version of "How Much is that Doggie in the Window," called "Le Chien Dans La Vitrine" - and during the course of the meal played a couple of classic French DVDs to show us, and the other patrons, his homeland and famous French actors.

I found it humorous that the table water was served without ice - exactly the same as my dining experiences in Europe - except that Giovanelli gladly gave us a couple of hi-ball glasses full of the stuff instead of turning his nose up at us and giving us one cube, like they do across the Atlantic.

For my lunch entree, I chose the $11 Baguette Pan Bagnat, a sandwich made with white tuna, a boiled egg and bell pepper, with a Caesar salad.

The Caesar dressing was the best I've ever had. I thought there was a hint of horseradish, or cayenne pepper, because it had a degree of spiciness that I really loved, but after asking the chef, he told me that it was just a very large amount of garlic and anchovies.

I started eating my sandwich, which was made with chopped tuna and was enjoying it until I made the mistake of sampling my fiance's $11 Crepe de la Mer.

It was this cheesy, creamy, buttery mix of smoked salmon and asparagus that was sauteed in white wine which made my sandwich pale in comparison.

And unfortunately I could only finagle a couple of forkfulls, so I'm going to be itching to go back and get my own crepe.

Cafe Massilia is located at 110 E. Lemon Ave., Monrovia, (626) 471-3588 or visit www.cafemassilia.com. 

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

I love soups - during all seasons of the year - but for me, especially during autumn and winter, there's nothing more satisfying than a boiling pot of the good stuff on a cool afternoon or evening.

My top three soups of all time are: 1. Fil Gumbo. And I've never found an incarnation that tops our family's more than 80-year-old recipe. 2. Clam Chowder. It's gotta be New England Style. And 3. Thai-style Tom Kha soup, or one of it's many variations.

I opted for the latter as an appetizer at Chang Thai Bistro in Monrovia, where it goes by the name Tom Kah Gai and is available with chicken, shrimp, vegetable or tofu.

About a quart of the soup arrived shortly - I chose chicken - which is an entire meal in itself for someone dining alone, but still makes a decent appetizer when split among as many as four.

Carrots, chili peppers, lemongrass, lime leaves and mushrooms all simmered in coconut milk never tasted so good.

Next I had the stir-fried Heavenly Pepper Garlic Chicken dish.

Now, for me, it usually takes about 13 cloves of garlic in a recipe before things get heavenly. Sadly, I didn't really taste much garlic. That's not to say that it wasn't good. It was, in fact, a very tasty dish with a slightly tangy flavor, and served with lots of crunchy cabbage. My expectations from the title, however, had me expecting a Stinking Rose or Versailles Cuban Food kind of experience.  

Finally, I had the opportunity to taste the Chicken Pad Thai, which was definitely up my alley, because it came from the kitchen exactly at the degree of spiciness that I love. Somehow, the chicken in the Pad Thai was super-juicy - much more than the other chicken dish and the soup - which is a conundrum I can't exactly get my head around, but I'll take it gladly.

Chang Thai Bistro is located at 614 S Myrtle Ave., in Monrovia. For information call (626) 357-9658 or visit changthaibistro.com.

By Lafayette C. Hight Jr.

In different parts of the country, these sandwiches are known as hoagies, submarines, bombers, heros, wedges, cosmos, zeps, and spuckies.

But in Monrovia, they're just grinders. And Gene has a knack for making them.

I've driven past Gene's Grinders nearly a hundred times over the years and I finally got the chance to step inside.

The menu is incredibly simple and straightforward. With the exception of french fries, potato chips and beverages, grinders are all that they do.

It was a hot grinder that I opted for - one of a half-dozen offerings that include a roast beef dip, meatball and kielbasa varieties - pastrami, and an order of $1.50 french fries.

It's a good thing I chose the $5.50 small sandwich, because when it arrived it was much larger than I expected, at nearly 12 inches.

I can't imagine how big the large grinders are, but I was impressed at how lightning-fast my grinder was prepared.

Now, in Los Angeles, there is a sandwich stand, not too far from the corner of Pico and Olympic boulevards, that serves pastrami that is so greasy, that if you were to place the wrapped sandwich on a copy of this newspaper, both would be soaked in about 45 seconds.

I'm so glad Gene's isn't that type of place.

The pastrami sandwich - which is different than the pastrami dip that is also offered - is prepared with lettuce, tomato, cheese and the meat was very lean. 

All of their small sandwiches fall into the $4 to $5.75 range, while the large sandwiches are between $5 and $7.50.

Now, the one thing that I got from Gene's. that I didn't expect, was a lesson in horse racing.

The placemats list the Santa Anita Park schedule, there are about 900 photos of different horses and races on the walls. A pair of horseshoes hang not too far from the door, and one of the many tidbits of information I picked up is that Sunday Silence and Easy Goer were the horses battling for the triple crown in 1989.

For a moment, after I first walked in, I though the restaurant was owned by the folks at the racetrack, as a kind of off-campus Frontrunner Restaurant.

But, I now know that Gene, who works in the kitchen regularly, is just a horse racing aficionado.

On my next visit I plan to try one of the cold sandwiches, like salami or tuna. Or maybe on a Friday, I'll try the sandwich of the day: Italian sausage.

Gene's Grinders is located at 800 S. Myrtle Ave. in Monrovia. For information, call (626) 358-8016.

By Lafayette C. Hight, Jr., Staff Writer

MONROVIA - I've been to Starlight Express on several occasions and one of the things I like most about this establishment is that the food seems like it just came out of the wok.

Which is a difficult thing for some of the "express" -styled Chinese restaurants that offer a dozen or so dishes for lunch and dinner served either under heat lamps or over boiling water.

The teriyaki chicken is always tender and juicy. And most importantly, it's not overly-sweet like it's been doused in a ton of sugar. I have to admit, whether I'm going to order it or not, I usually try a sample of it.

I also really love their vegetable egg rolls. My only complaint is that I wish they were bigger - more toward the hot dog side of things, rather than the vienna sausage end of the scale. 

But on my last visit I decided to try something new: Black pepper chicken and broccoli beef with steamed rice and chow mein.

The spices used in the chicken dish reminded me of flavors used in cajun cooking. It wasn't too spicy, but the blend had a little bit of heat with a touch of citrus somewhere in the mix.

The broccoli beef wasn't flavored as interestingly as the chicken, but it was good.

On the day I went they didn't have the lemon chicken I once had, and I hope it isn't gone from the menu. Starlight also has egg drop soup, and hot and sour soup, which I'm looking forward to trying in the future.

I typically opt for one of their one-item, two-item, or three-item combination meals, which, at $4.29, $5.29 and $6.29 respectively, makes lunch or dinner a pretty inexpensive prospect. Drinks are somewhere around a buck, and two egg rolls can be had for around the same price. 

Another reason I like this restaurant is that it's one of the few Chinese restaurants I know of that happens to be open on Sundays. 

Dining on a budget:

I walked into the Canadian Cafe in Monrovia ready to take all of Canada they were willing to throw at me.

The amount of time I've spent in Canada doesn't even add up to 20 minutes - the time it took to walk back and forth over The Falls. So I decided to do a bit of culinary research on America's neighbors to the north.

In addition to the many varieties of fish, shellfish, and other seafood to be found, Quebec is known for its cheese; Ontario, its maple syrup; and in Newfoundland, seal flippers, cod tongues, moose, caribou and venison are among the delicacies.

I didn't find any of these on the Canadian Cafe's menu - unless they have an In-N-Out -styled secret menu - so I decided to piece together the most Canadian meal I could.