Islamorada Fish Co., 7777 Victoria Garden Lane (at I-15), Rancho Cucamonga.

Islamorada is the in-store restaurant at the huntin’, fishin’ and campin’ paradise, Bass Pro Shops in Rancho Cucamonga’s Victoria Gardens, as mentioned in today’s column. While writing that piece, incidentally, my spellcheck suggested that I replace “Islamorada” with “slumlords”; I declined.

You can access the restaurant from the parking lot or from the store. On Monday about 7:30, the dining room was said to be full, so a friend and I ate in the lounge, where they have full service. Even the bar is impressive, with a lot of wood, an aquatic motif and, behind the bar, an aquarium some six feet high that wrapped around the bar. It made for a great view.

A duo performed until about 7:45, a woman singing and a man on keyboards. First full number we heard: “I Will Survive.” I pretended the lyrics were being sung from the point of view of a tenacious fish or defiant deer.

The server brought out a small loaf of tasty, sugar-topped bread. The cajun pineapple tilapia came lightly blackened, with a sort of chutney on top. I liked it. The grilled scallops were even better. The rice was OK, the fries were above average and the vegetables slightly mushy. Service was attentive.

Overall, a better meal than expected, or even necessary. While not as good as Market Broiler in Ontario or Kings Fish House at the other end of Victoria Gardens, I’d go back.