Restaurant of the Week: Harry's Pacific Grill

Harry's Pacific Grill, 8009 Day Creek (at Victoria Gardens Lane), Victoria Gardens, Rancho Cucamonga

I've been to Honolulu Harry's, owned by the same chain, but this is virtually nothing like that. It's a more upscale experience, without the tropical gimmickry (which is fun, by the way).

I had the Paniolo skirt steak ($17), which was said to have been marinated 24 hours, with fries; my friend had the Asian Pacific Pescado ($16), which came with baby broccoli, kalamata olives, fresh tomatoes and white wine reduction.

What was Asian or Mexican about the fish's preparation wasn't clear, but it was flavorful and served on a bed of scalloped potatoes. My steak was tender and juicy. Even my fries were good. Harry's atmosphere hit that sweet spot where you feel you're in a nice place but it's not so stiff that you're intimidated.

On a later visit I had a good "Nuevo Latino" pork chop with pepper jack potatoes and vegetables ($16, pictured). View the menu here.