Restaurant of the Week: Maria’s Italian Deli

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Maria’s Italian Deli, 202 W. Holt Blvd. (at Laurel), Ontario.

Maria’s opened this spring in a newly remodeled two-story building at Holt and Laurel, a couple of blocks west of Euclid, and it’s become popular in the neighborhood as an alternative to the Mexican restaurants and hamburger stands in the immediate area.

I’ve eaten there a couple of times. The interior is long, narrow and a little bare, with a Van Gogh poster the only decoration, but the place is neat as a pin. My first visit I had a ham and mortadella with provolone ($6.50) and ate outside; the second time I had a Classic Italian Salame (salami, pepperoni and turkey) with provolone (also $6.50) and ate inside.

Outside is fun. There’s a patio with six shaded tables, surrounded by a wrought iron fence, and from there you can enjoy the outdoors in relative comfort and watch the Holt Boulevard scene, such as it is. For instance, a guy walked by in a Brooklyn Dodgers jersey that read, on the back, “Cash 4 God” with a phone number. Inside is cool on a hot day, if sedate; I was the only customer for a late lunch.

The sandwiches weren’t bad. In fact, they were better than expected, given the rather shaky help at the counter. If you’re thinking an Italian deli should be boisterous and full of life, staffed by crusty, colorful experts at the art of sandwich-making, this isn’t that.

The staff is pleasant, though. My second visit, the owner (who doesn’t know me) said as I left: “Have a great day, okay? We really appreciate your business.” And you know, she sounded as though she meant it.

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