Restaurant of the Week: Yatai Sushi Express

This week's restaurant: Yatai Sushi Express, 8956 Foothill Blvd. (at Vineyard), Rancho Cucamonga.

Yatai is in the winery center on the northeast corner, in a building between Souplantation and Bobby Baja's. The interior is small, clean and colorful. Even though it's "express," the tables have waitress service.

This is far from a high-end sushi palace and, expectations adjusted downward, I opted for the Yakisoba Chicken ($6.95). This began with a small lettuce salad. The main course had noodles, teriyaki chicken and cabbage. I ate every bit.

Meanwhile, my friend had one of the lunch specials, the Alaskan Roll ($6.99) -- salmon atop a California roll, baked -- and thought it was quite good. I sampled it and agreed. Who knew? It came with a choice of two other items, the proverbial one from column B and one from column C; she got two pieces of salmon sushi and a Coke.

Yatai has a large array of sushi and sashimi, plus bento boxes, $6.99 three-item lunch specials and meals no pricier than $12.95.

Not fine dining, but a pleasant surprise.