Cole’s, L.A.

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One of the stops I made last week during my furlough was the newly reopened Cole’s P.E. Buffet in downtown L.A. at 6th and Main. Cole’s opened in 1908 and like Philippe’s, it also claims to have invented the French dip sandwich. Unlike Philippe’s, which settled into its current location in 1951, Cole’s has stuck like glue to 118 E. 6th St. for 101 years.

The obscure Cole’s is forever in the shadow of the perennially popular Philippe’s, even if the sandwiches at Cole’s may be slightly better. Another example of life’s inherent unfairness.

I’d been to Cole’s once before, back in 2006, shortly before it closed for renovation. The operation, which is slightly below street level in the old Pacific Electric building, was charming in a down-at-the-heels way. The place was rethought and retooled when the building was rehabbed into lofts. The interior still has the wonderful saloon-like bar, a carving station, round lamps, bordello-esque wallpaper and vintage photos, but the sawdust is gone, as is the buffet service. You now sit at plush booths and order from a waiter off a very short menu.

A lamb dip ($8) comes with a dish of au jus, a nice touch. Good bread, good meat, good presentation. The spicy pickle wasn’t to my liking. A side of purple slaw was good on its own or added to the sandwich.

On the whole, I’d rather eat at Philippe’s — how many generations of Angelenos have rendered the same judgment? — because it’s a livelier place and it has way more pie. Mmmm…pie. Still, devotees of old L.A. need to visit Cole’s at least once. It’s easily reached via Metrolink and the Red Line subway (Pershing Square stop).

* Steve Harvey (with whom I lunched) was inspired, as I’d thought he might be, to write a history piece on Cole’s.

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