Cole's, L.A.
One of the stops I made last week during my furlough was the newly reopened Cole's P.E. Buffet in downtown L.A. at 6th and Main. Cole's opened in 1908 and like Philippe's, it also claims to have invented the French dip sandwich. Unlike Philippe's, which settled into its current location in 1951, Cole's has stuck like glue to 118 E. 6th St. for 101 years.
The obscure Cole's is forever in the shadow of the perennially popular Philippe's, even if the sandwiches at Cole's may be slightly better. Another example of life's inherent unfairness.
I'd been to Cole's once before, back in 2006, shortly before it closed for renovation. The operation, which is slightly below street level in the old Pacific Electric building, was charming in a down-at-the-heels way. The place was rethought and retooled when the building was rehabbed into lofts. The interior still has the wonderful saloon-like bar, a carving station, round lamps, bordello-esque wallpaper and vintage photos, but the sawdust is gone, as is the buffet service. You now sit at plush booths and order from a waiter off a very short menu.
A lamb dip ($8) comes with a dish of au jus, a nice touch. Good bread, good meat, good presentation. The spicy pickle wasn't to my liking. A side of purple slaw was good on its own or added to the sandwich.
On the whole, I'd rather eat at Philippe's -- how many generations of Angelenos have rendered the same judgment? -- because it's a livelier place and it has way more pie. Mmmm...pie. Still, devotees of old L.A. need to visit Cole's at least once. It's easily reached via Metrolink and the Red Line subway (Pershing Square stop).
* Steve Harvey (with whom I lunched) was inspired, as I'd thought he might be, to write a history piece on Cole's.
6 Comments
Leave a comment
About this blog
About this blogger
A journalist for more than two decades, David Allen has been writing a column for the Daily Bulletin since 1997 and blogging since 2007.He lives in Claremont.
E-mail David here or read columns here.
MNG Corporate Site Map | Newspaper Media Kit
| For more local Southern California News: | Copyright ©2010 |
| Los Angeles Newspaper group |
David, as always, love the blog, but hate what you've done with the blog design.
The black on teal is very hard to read for those of us who have reached, uh, a certain age. The blue links are IMPOSSIBLE to read, and the fact that the text is all bold is an affront to my graphics sensibility.
Hopefully this was an experiment by some underling who will be thrashed about the head for taking liberties.
Sorry, I do hope that it doesn't come to violence.
[Me too. Apparently something wonky happened with the blogs last night. I never saw it myself. I think it was a fritz rather than an experiment. They're back to normal now. -- DA]
David:
Los Angeles Public Library is also close to the Pershing Square station. Do you know where this place is in regards to the library? I would like to visit this place but if I'm that close to the library I have to go there too!
[The library's a couple of blocks west of the station. Cole's is one block south and maybe four blocks east of the station. You could very easily do both in one trip, Ms. Lois. The Museum of Neon Art and Pete's Cafe, both written about here recently, are about three blocks east of the station. -- DA]
I haven't been to Cole's since the reopening but am anxious to go back and see the changes. I loved the nostalgic feel of the place. It evoked a feeling that Sgt Friday and Officer Gannon could suddenly stroll in and roust one of the bar patrons.
Maybe I'll wait for Angels Flight to reopen as well and make it a twofer.
I had never heard about Cole's until last week. Yet this posting is third time I've heard or read about Cole's this week. It's wild when buzz permeates around restaurants. My loyalty to Philippe's might be tested by curiosity.
[Go for it, even if only once. -- DA]
I was a regular at Cole's before the renovation. I work on 1st St, so between there and Philippe's, it's a toss-up if walking. However, I like the sandwiches at Cole's much better. The atmosphere there is a plus.
As you enter, the sandwich line is straight ahead, the bar and cashier to the right. If you keep going right, there are eating rooms further buried into the interior. To the left of the sandwich line is a little room with only a few booths. This is supposedly where the gangsters used to meet.
[Thanks for the info. FYI, there's no "sandwich line" anymore -- they have table service. But I know where you meant, the carving station, which is still there. -- DA]
With my appetite whetted from this blog, I visited Cole's today with hopes of enjoying my favorite corned beef sandwich that I enjoyed before they closed a few years ago. Sadly, I noticed that Cole's no longer serves corned beef.
Only mildly disappointed but still happy to have Cole's back, I ordered the basic flagship beef dip with swiss cheese instead, and a glass of ale. The server returned a couple minutes later to inform me they were "out of beef"! At 2 pm in the afternoon!?!
Puzzled but still undaunted, I settled for pork and swiss instead. A few moment later the server returns again but this time to inform me they're "out of ale"! Quietly miffed, I opted for the lager which, thankfully, was promptly served and was cold and tasty. When they finally served the sandwich, the swiss cheese was m.i.a. By then I wished I'd gone to Philippe's instead.
I'm so hoping my experience today was an exception because if not, I seriously question their next 100 years.
[I can see how you would. My friend and I had no problem with our orders. -- DA]