Restaurant of the Week: Golden China

CLOSED

Golden China, 8851 Central Ave. (at Arrow Highway), Montclair

The sign outside Golden China was glowing as were the paper lantern-shaped lamps outside when a friend and I met here for dinner on a Friday night. I’d never been here but we were drawn by the four-star Yelp rating.

Inside the place is very 1980s, with vinyl booths and mirrored walls. Charmingly old school. (The decor likely originated with Royal China, there from 1987 to 1996; for the record, it was followed by the shortlived Golden Buddha. Golden China opened in 1998. A future incarnation as Royal Buddha would round things out nicely.) There’s a well-stocked bar at which drinks are mixed. You can see the menu here.

We tried two of the specialties, black pepper chicken ($12.55, below) and sizzling rice shrimp ($16, bottom), both as dinners with soup, egg roll, paper-wrapped chicken and rice. The platter of white-meat chicken pieces came with onions and black pepper. My shrimp arrived on a sizzling platter. The dish had a welcome number of large shrimp in a sweet sauce with unusual crisp rice puffs.

My friend and I liked his dish more than we liked mine. When Yelp reviewers rave about the orange chicken, you know you’re not getting cutting-edge food. Ditto when you’re brought a cup of jello to end your meal, as well as the requisite fortune cookie. But the service was efficient and attentive. Not a four-star restaurant, and you can do better, but for Americanized Chinese food, it’s homey.

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Ramon Sanchez, iconic Ontario restaurateur, dies

Ramon Sanchez, the founder and proprietor of Ramon’s Cactus Patch, the oldest restaurant in Ontario, died Wednesday evening at home at age 98, according to his family.

Sanchez on March 30 closed his Mexican restaurant, which he opened in 1938, due to illness. He was suffering from colon cancer. I wrote about that earlier in April.

Services will be private, at Sanchez’ request, and he also told his family he didn’t want an obituary or any fuss. “No fanfare. That was his way,” daughter Claudia said.

That said, I’ll be writing about him anyway. (That’s my way.) His family is fine with that and I’m sure he would be too. In the meantime, farewell to a local institution.

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the xx @ the Fox

The English pop band the xx performed a sold-out show Wednesday at the Fox Theater in Pomona between dates at the Coachella festival. Above are bassist Oliver Sim, foreground, and guitarist Romy Madley-Croft, left, the band’s principals.

Very moody and atmospheric stuff, as the lighting hints at, and the audience ate it up. There were screams as if we were watching the Beatles. I was curious to see them because several of my friends are big fans, and critics love them too, but I haven’t connected, at least not yet. They did put on a good show and seemed genuinely touched by the rapturous response: “Again and again and again, thank you so much,” Sim said earnestly toward the end.

On the floor, it seemed like half the fans had cell phones or cameras to take photos or record videos, as the picture below indicates. In front of me, both halves of a couple viewed the show almost exclusively through tiny screens. What, can’t they share a single video later? Try to coexist (to quote the title of the band’s latest album)!

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Arby’s site gets a boost

Something’s coming soon to the old Arby’s in Pomona, but it’s not a restaurant. Rather, a Boost Mobile store will occupy the Conestoga wagon-shaped building at 2250 N. Garey Ave. Arby’s opened in 1970 and closed in May 2012, taking its charming ten-gallon hat-shaped neon sign with it.

Richard Nichols, who alerted me to the sign, joked: “For $55 a month you get unlimited everything, including Horsey Sauce.”

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‘North by Northwest’

My Alfred Hitchcock film festival at the Ontario library enters the home stretch with Thursday’s screening of “North by Northwest,” from 1959. The Wikipedia page has useful background on the film, one of Hitchcock’s most popular and entertaining efforts. The screening begins at 6:30 p.m. at the library, 215 E. C St. Admission is free.

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Postal Service @ the Fox

Above are Jenny Lewis and Ben Gibbard of the pop group Postal Service, performing at the Fox Pomona on Monday night. Excellent show and my new favorite band. Is it possible to say that about a lineup that released its one and only album 10 years ago? It was reissued with bonus tracks last week, and purchased by yours truly, who had never heard of them until recently. The band has reunited for a spring tour and Coachella festival appearance, but probably not for new recordings. Well, I love them anyway.

They performed every song off their album (how could they not have?) but in arrangements that were more urgent and guitar-driven. Beautiful stuff.

Below, fans congregate outside the Fox afterward. Third Street is blocked off at Garey and Thomas streets, allowing fans to take photos of the blazing marquee without fear of traffic. A nice touch.

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A fantastic fan

Re-reading issue 15 (June 1963) of the flagship Marvel comic The Fantastic Four the other night, I found a house ad for FF fan clubs around the country. In a pleasant surprise, one was based in Upland.

Wonder whatever became of Mark Carey of 734 N. 8th Ave., Upland? Hope he’s had a fantastic life.

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