Corner Butcher Shop, 2359 Foothill Blvd. (at Fruit), La Verne

It was January 2008 that a standalone butcher opened in a shopping center in La Verne, and while brothers John and Will Feuling’s business may have seemed a bold and even risky proposition to some of us, Corner Butcher Shop has thrived despite opening amid the recession.

I don’t cook, as must be sadly obvious from these weekly posts, but besides selling meat to take home to grill, fry or broil, they serve food in-house: sandwiches, steak and barbecue. Over the years I’ve had hot dogs and burgers, and at one point, after they added barbecue, I had ribs that in my memory were okay but nothing special.

I returned recently for lunch and learned they’d just celebrated eight years in business, and good for them. I eyed the menu and got the brisket as a plate, with two sides and a piece of cornbread ($13), plus a bottled soda, then took a seat at one of the heavy oak communal tables.

What arrived was a plate with a heap of brisket, tender and delicious. I can’t say it’s the best brisket I’ve had, but then, I’ve been to Franklin in Austin and Pappy’s in St. Louis, two of the best brisket makers in the country. But this was the best brisket I’ve had locally, which is still impressive. The slightly spicy pasta salad and the cole slaw were both fine versions as well. I would definitely order this again.

Corner Butcher sells grass-fed beef, makes its own sausages, buys only hormone- and additive-free meat and sells Shelton’s turkeys, so they set a high standard for themselves. They also sell craft beer (Dale Brothers, Claremont Craft Ales) and wine, and they cater. Sandwiches and entrees range from $6 to $18. The steak dinners are $40, and while I probably won’t be spending that kind of money anytime soon, it wouldn’t surprise me to learn they’re worth every penny.