« Riding The Wave | Main | Hope Frazier, RIP »

Big Thursday

Wednesday was my dad Milt Wilson's 80th birthday. He and his wife Norma live in Honolulu, and travel a lot. They'd just come into town after a trip to Portugal, Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay. Tuesday my sister Alicia and I took them up to San Luis Obispo and then over to Cambria, where our cousin Terry Damerel and her husband Jim own the Burton Inn, a very nice place to stay, and we had a great family time.

In the back of my mind, I knew about the huge surf that was coming in to the whole West Coast. But this wasn't a surfing trip. Until it was. From a note I sent to my surfing buddies:

so the night before i headed up to cambria for my dad's 80th i heard
my cousin terry damerel's husband jimmy was talking about going out
in the swell of '07 and that he had a big quiver of boards. so i
brought the 4/3 suit pete moffat just gave me -- thanks, pete, you
saved my life! -- and booties just in case. yesterday morning he came
knocking for dawn patrol and he had a 9'6" tri fin for me and an 8'8" for him. we went down to this one cliff and two guys
were out in this crazy swell that you had to paddle through a lot of
rocks to get to and i said "what's this called" and he said
"paranoids." and then we went north near san simeon and looked out
over another cliff and there was no one in the water and 200 yards
out overhead waves were breaking on a reef and i said what's this
called and he said "cardiacs." then we went a mile north to a nice
placid beach break
http://www.surfline.com/reports/report_travel.cfm?id=5051 and i said
"this looks rideable" and he said "mmm ... we're going to cardiacs."
so we did. it looked so good he called his son jason, who is 28 and
visiting from australia, telling him to come down. only way to paddle
out 'cause there are so damn many rocks is at high tide, which it
was. we get out after a 10-minute paddle and it was 7-8 feet and tons
of kelp and he'd loaned me a hood so it actually wasn't that cold.
monster sets, but you could stay out of the lineup if you were
chicken. i looked at a lot of waves and took just four of them in 90
minutes. one crummy right were i turned too fast into the face
getting used to the new board and just rammed right through it. one
where i held on but couldn't figure out how to get out of the white
water once it closed out since the soup was so huge behind me so i
took it all the way in. big mistake. rocks are inside. i got back out
and jimmy said, "when that happens, just jump off." then jason
paddles out on this 6-foot merrick and he's one of these guys who
just flies into the air and then back down and then bounces off the
lip and it's really fun to watch. then i take a very cool left and
stay on the shoulder the whole time and am very happy with probably
the biggest backside i've ever taken. only problem is getting pounded
on the paddle back out. then i'm looking at taking one in because
i've had my session and am still alive. found a head-high right and
took it 250 yards to the one place you can get through a channel and
crawl out through the rocks and stay safe -- not the same place we
came in. little seal pops up right beside me as i get off my board.
stand on the cliff and feel like i've really earned that cigar i fire
up with joy.

Comments

wvlpoc zlnrwqjm vearnct kdloq qlgdnmkpr zvowugijx vqwjbrk

maybe you would enjoy my site, i certainly enjoyed yours. - Legal Nugs

I’d be inclined to make a deal with you one this subject. Which is not something I typically do! I really like reading a post that will make people think. Also, thanks for allowing me to speak my mind!

Hi we really loved reading through your interesting and informative blog at first my husband and i was quite concerned about going on a cruise but now we have been on several lovely holidays thanks to this site, I hope you all enjoy your next one.Thanks,Billy

Nice blog here! Also your website loads up fast! What host are you using? I wish my website loaded up as fast as yours lol

I love the way you write and also the theme on your blog. Did you code this yourself or was it done by a professional? I'm very very impressed.

I am extremely impressed with your writing skills and also with the layout on your blog. Is this a paid theme or did you customize it yourself? Either way keep up the nice quality writing, it's rare to see a nice blog like this one these days.. :)

Hi the info on this blog is just incredible it keeps me coming back time and time again ,personally i met my wife using this site so i couldnt love it any more i have done my best to promote this blog as i feel that people need to see this thing ,thankyou for all your time you take in making this fabulous resource ! ok,thanks daniel

I truly appreciate this article post.Much thanks again. Really Great.

Hi, i must say fantastic site you have, i stumbled across it in Google. Does you get much traffic?

Bom dia companheiros, com certeza manter um carro é oneroso devido ao da verdadeira pilantragem de algumas empresas como as de financiamento. Estas nem dão valor ao contrato assinado ou tem escondidas em letras microscópicas deveres que dão prejuízo ao adquirinte do veículo. O Código do Consumidor muitas vezes não protege todas as deveres do comprador. Estava lendo umas dicas no http://www.carrousado.org sobre todos os passos para a compra sem ter dor de cabeça no final. É só um desabafo, realmente está difícil fazer bons negócios.

Can you send me a email? My business is considering placing an advertisement here.

Love all the opinions expressed here! How is everyone? Love how everyone expresses whatr they feel :)

Nice!! Great Ifo. Great People. Great Blog. Thank you for all the great sharing that is being done here.

Thanks for your insight for the great posting. I am glad I have taken the time to see this.

Amazing freakin blog here. I almost cried while reading it!

This is the best blog I've ever seen in my life! I really appreciate you taking the time out of your busy day to share your this with everyone.

Pretty handy post. I'm doing analysis on this field right now and this was great. Thank you for your unique take on this matter.

Thanks for taking the time to discuss this, I feel strongly about it and love learning more on this topic. If possible, as you gain expertise, would you mind updating your blog with more information? It is extremely helpful for me.

Of course, what a magnificent site and educative posts, I definitely will bookmark your site.All the Best!

I'm still learning from you, while I'm making my way to the top as well. I definitely love reading all that is written on your blog.Keep the posts coming. I enjoyed it!

Good post and straight to the point. I don't know if this is actually the best place to ask but do you folks have any ideea where to hire some professional writers? Thank you :)

Bom dia amigos, com certeza possuir um automóvel é difícil devido ao altos custos de algumas empresas como as de vendas de usados. Estas nem sempre cumprem ao contrato assinado ou tem embutidas em letras microscópicas deveres que não beneficiam ao consumidor do carro. O Código do Consumidor muitas vezes não comtempla todas as clausúlas do comprador. Estava lendo umas experiências no http://www.carrousado.org sobre todos os cuidados para a compra sem ter dor de cabeça no final. Desculpem, realmente está difícil fazer boas compras.

Boa noite pessoal, com certeza ter um automóvel é custoso devido ao altos custos de algumas empresas como as de leasing. Estas nem dão valor ao contrato firmado ou tem escondidas em letras miúdas regras que dão prejuízo ao adquirinte do veículo. O Código do Consumidor muitas vezes não protege todas as artimanhas do consumidor. Estava lendo umas experiências no http://www.carrousado.org sobre todos os passos para a aquisição sem ter dor de cabeça no final. Foi mal, realmente está difícil fazer boas aquisições.

Can I just answer what a pain relief toward hit upon a big name who really is familiar with what theyre talking regarding on the online world. You absolutely know how to carry an issue to glow plus build it important. Extra community require to study this plus understand this side of the story. I cant consider youre not more popular since you certainly contain the gift.

It was a pleasure looking through the details you provided. Thank you very much for taking the time to create the information site. I definitely will revisit very soon.

Finden Sie günstige Ferienhäuser

Of course, what a splendid blog and educative posts, I definitely will bookmark your site.All the Best!

I wanted to thank you for this excellent read!! I definitely loved every little bit of it. I have you bookmarked your site to look at the latest stuff you post.

A single flower does not make a spring.A snow year, a rich year.

Took me moment to observe every one of the comments, but I really loved the piece of writing. It proved being actually obliging to me plus I am optimistic to every the commenters here! It’s in general kind when you be able to not just be informed, but in adding entertained! I am positive you had pleasant writing this write-up.

The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod's. It works well, but isn't as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that's not an issue, but if you're planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod's larger screen and better browser may be important.

Merry Christmas! oleagino us. replica louisvuitton handbags

I am not in fact positive if best tactics include emerged about stuff like that, except I am definite that your huge job is visibly discovered. I was thinking if you offer one registration to your RSS feeds because I would be very concerned.

What a release to notice a post that can be present ultimately in actuality significance reading! I’ve been looking for all-around on the subject of this subject except men and women just put rubbish posts, or short worthless article. I contain experienced a couple vids on youtube but it’s now the identical as reading a good article.

You made some good points there. I did a search on the subject matter and found most guys will consent with your site.

Merry Christmas First! I enyoj your blog. air max 12

Way to focus and straight to your point, i love it. Keep up the work people. Dont let anyone stop us bloggers.

Finden Sie günstige Ferienhäuser