All tomorrow's parties
In Pasadena, it isn't really a major bash or benefit unless Peggy Dark's Kitchen for Exploring Foods is catering it. In fact, before you take one of those passed canapes, it's best to ask the wandering server, "Kitchen?" If she says, "Sadly, no," politely decline the proferred liver-y object.
If she brightly says, "Of course!" then dig in -- the cheese toast, or smoked salmon and provolone loaf, or minature chile relleno in chipotle sauce, or chocolate mousse shooter, or the classic lollipop lamb chop in fresh mint sauce, or crab salad on brioche toast, or lobster and papaya on sugar cane skewers, will not just be good: it will be great. You will chase the servers down, haunting the swinging door from the kitchen for first dibs. You will forget why you are otherwise at the shindig excepting the victuals.
Before a party last week given in honor of Peggy's new book, "Fabulous Parties," written with Mark Held and Richard David of Mark's Garden, I had no idea that she also was a favorite of the carriage trade in the rest of Southern California. But it's true. I broke my personal code of parochialism and headed for the wilds of Beverly Hills to celebrate Peggy -- and because rumor had it that The Kitchen was catering. That and the fact that the party was to be held at Dawnridge, the artist and designer Tony Duquette's unbelievably lush and crazy villa.
It was a really great party -- something out of Noel Coward. The Pasadena people clung together, making wonderfully rude remarks about the plastic surgery that had been performed upon the Westsiders.
When you dip into Peggy's book, you too can learn how to make a spanish almond deviled egg and the perfect wash-down: a pineapple mint julep. Bottom's up.