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<item>
<title>Burrata -- it&apos;s the cheese</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="26_cheese_1.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/26_cheese_1.JPG" width="400" height="266" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></span></p>

<p><strong>By Natalie Haughton</strong><br />
Daily News Food Editor</p>

<p>Burrata -- the current darling of cheese lovers -- is a silky rich ball of fresh mozzarella stretched over a soft filling of cream and mozzarella strands.</p>

<p>Consumers and chefs are crazy about it. It's now appearing on menus at many of Southern California's toniest restaurants, served in fashionable appetizers and salads.</p>

<p>Burrata originated in Italy in the Puglian city of Andria some 80 years ago. Today, you'll find lots of burrata -- the name comes from the Italian "burro" or "butter" -- handmade by two California companies, as well as some imported from Italy.</p>

<p>"I love the creamy texture and milk-fresh flavor of both the domestic and imported burratas," says Nancy Silverton, founder of Los Angeles' La Brea Bakery. She has been serving it for 12 years, first at Campanile and La Brea Bakery and now at Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza, which she co-owns. "Even people who are not cheese fans love it, as it's not strong and not smelly. I think the flavor of the Italian burrata is more complex and much richer. When you cut it, all the cream oozes out -- not the case with domestic burrata.</p>

<p><img alt="26_cheese_4.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/26_cheese_4.JPG" width="300" height="165" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;"/></form>"Burrata is a very perishable cheese that has really taken off -- so much so that it's helped put a Los Angeles food product on the map. People first started eating and discovering it at Los Angeles restaurants -- particularly in the last five years."</p>

<p>Vito Girardi, a native of Gioia del Colle, Italy, and president-owner of Gioia Cheese Co. in South El Monte, has been making burrata cheese by hand since 1994 but only sold 400 pounds that first year. Business is booming now, and "we are making 2,000 pounds a day," mostly for upscale restaurants and a small number of retail outlets. </p>

<p>Girardi fills his fresh cow's-milk mozzarella with cream and shredded fresh mozzarella. </p>

<p>At San Diego-based Cantare Foods, "we wrap (stretch) our mozzarella around mascarpone mixed with cream and some mozzarella shreds," says company CEO Olivier Fischer-Morelle.</p>

<p>Silverton features domestic burrata by Gioia on menus at her two latest restaurants along with burrata imported from Basilicata near Puglia at Osteria Mozza. The Italian import comes tied at the top with a knot and green string (traditionally it came with a leek-like piece tied around it to indicate how long the cheese remained fresh)-- and she serves it with sweated leeks and olive oil-soaked bread on the side. </p>

<p>Burrata should be served unheated, she says. "Personally, I think it loses all of its character when heated; it just melts and you don't have that creaminess." </p>

<p>At Pizzeria Mozza, she buys 1-pound pieces and serves a scoop of it in a mozza caprese -- with pesto on top of the burrata, then snipped fresh basil and a pile of roasted tomatoes. Silverton also uses burrata on squash blossom pizzas, adding small scoops after the pizza is cooked in the wood-burning oven. </p>

<p><img alt="26_cheese_6.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/26_cheese_6.JPG" width="300" height="200" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></form>In the mozzarella bar at Osteria Mozza, she uses half of a 4-ounce burrata ball as an appetizer on toasted white sourdough batard bread with marinated grilled escarole and applewood smoked bacon, and also on top of an open-face braised leek/whole grain mustard vinaigrette sandwich.</p>

<p>Spago Beverly Hills has been serving domestic burrata for five years, says Thomas Boyce, chef de cuisine. "We like to use it within two days of delivery, as it doesn't age well. When it's fresh, it is sweet."</p>

<p>Somtimes a scoop of burrata is served over a fanned-out roasted and caramelized, cool pear half then dressed with a little olive oil, fleur de sel, black pepper and a prosciutto piece. </p>

<p>"Burrata is also good with figs in season, sliced, with fleur de sel, fig syrup and saba (a liquid made out of grape must). It's amazing, too, with fresh or roasted peaches with basil oil and fleur del sel," Boyce adds. He also serves a spoonful on bruschetta atop marinated shelling beans and pesto. And sometimes, he adds dollops to a margherita pizza at the end of cooking and just warms it through. </p>

<p>"People like it (burrata) because it has the flavor of a really nice fresh mozzarella but also that really creamy texture and just a hint of acidity. I love it. I can't see what's not to like," adds Boyce. </p>

<p>Girardi makes mostly 1-pound pieces and, on request, some smaller balls for restaurants (the process takes about about five hours from start to finish) and packs them in containers without any water or liquid. The product, with a short shelf life, must be stored at 36 to 40 degrees F and used within five days. When it's past its prime, "it starts going sour and is bitter-tasting," notes Girardi.</p>

<p>Cantare Foods, which has been making burrata for six years, with sales of the handmade product doubling every year, sells mostly retail to consumers through supermarkets with two 4-ounce balls packed in water, says CEO Fischer-Morelle. "It has a shelf life of about 21 days from the date of manufacture and should be used by the sell-by date." </p>

<p><img alt="26_cheese_5.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/26_cheese_5.JPG" width="300" height="225" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;"/></form>In business almost three decades, Wisconsin-based BelGioioso Cheese Inc., has been making burrata -- in four-and eight-ounce balls -- for a year. The company also packs its burratain a container with water, to keep it moist -- and figures it lasts 37 days, notes Errico Auricchio, president/owner, a native of Naples. However, once opened, it should be used within a day or two.</p>

<p>Paula Lambert, founder and cheesemaker of the Dallas-based Mozzarella Co., has been making handmade burrata in the style of burrino for the last two decades -- but sales have doubled in the last few years.</p>

<p>"When I originally went to Italy to learn to make fresh mozzarella 25 years ago, I learned to make this (style of) burrata," she says. "It is a fresh Italian-style cow'smilk cheese made by completely encasing a soft, creamy lump of sweet cream butter (made from churning fresh cream) with soft, fresh mozzarella." The eight-ounceballs are wrapped in pachment paper, vacuum-sealedand can be kept refrigerated unopened for three weeks (a week once opened). </p>

<p>Best served at room temperature, the flavor is fresh, milky and buttery. While other burrata is too gooeyto melt, this one is delicious when sliced and heated on a bread slice.<br />
<big><strong><br />
WAYS TO SAVOR THE FLAVOR OF BURRATA</strong></big></p>

<ul>
	<big><li>Serve a ball centered on a plate, topped with a couple of basil leaves and black olives, surrounded with thin slices of prosciutto and roasted red pepper strips.</li>
	<li>Serve a ball or piece atop beefsteak tomato slices, sprinkled with chopped fresh basil and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar.</li>
	<li>Cut and serve on endive leaves for an appetizer.</li>
	<li>Serve with roasted pear slices or grilled peach slices and drizzle with balsamic vinegar and add a sprinkle of fleur de sel.</li>
	<li>Try a bacon or pancetta, burrata and tomato sandwich on foccacia or toasted country bread slices.</li>
	<li>Top a crostini with arugula, a scoop of burrata and a slice of piquillo pepper. </li>
	<li>Toss pieces of burrata into hot cooked pasta with lemon, almonds and fresh basil; do not heat.</li>
	<li>Top room-temperature roasted or grilled vegetables with a scoop or piece of sliced burrata, then drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper.</li>
	<li>Add burrata cheese wedges to top of a shaved vegetable salad of thinly sliced endive, celery stalks and fennel bulb tossed with olive oil, fresh lemon juice, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle with olive oil.</li>
	<li>Add a few dollops to your favorite pizza as it comes hot from the oven. </li>
</ul></big>

<p><big><strong>WINTER CAPRESE</strong></big><br />
To avoid bitterness, prepare the pesto in a mortar and pestle (reserve extra pesto for another meal). Serve this with your favorite crusty bread to sop up the wonderful, juicy flavors left behind on your plate.</p>

<p><strong>1 pound baby Roma OR cherry tomatoes on the vine<br />
1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil, plus extra for garnish<br />
Salt<br />
Freshly cracked black pepper to taste<br />
1 (1-pound) burrata cheese<br />
4 tablespoons Pesto Sauce (recipe follows)<br />
4 large basil leaves</strong></p>

<p>Place tomatoes with vines intact on a wire rack set on a baking sheet. Brush with 1 tablespoon olive oil and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Roast in a preheated 200 degree oven 4 to 4 1/2 hours, until the skins begin to shrivel like a raisin but the tomatoes remain plump. Remove from oven and allow to cool to room temperature.</p>

<p>Divide the cheese evenly, cut into quarters, placing it cut side up on 4 small plates. Season cheese lightly with sea salt. Spoon 1 tablespoon Pesto Sauce over each portion. Using scissors, snip a basil leaf over each portion. Top with tomatoes, divided evenly among each plate, leaving the vine intact (use scissors to cut the vine for each serving). Drizzle tomatoes with olive oil (about 1/2 teaspoon per serving) and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.</p>

<p><strong>PESTO SAUCE: </strong>Spread 3 tablespoons pine nuts on a baking sheet and toast in a preheated 325-degree oven 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool. Using a mortar and pestle, pulverize the pine nuts, 2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped (about 1 tablespoon), 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves, 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves and 1 teaspoon kosher salt into a smooth paste. Slowly drizzle in 1/2 cup good-quality olive oil and add 1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, mixing well to incorporate. Just before serving, season with 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (or to taste) and additional salt to taste. Makes 3/4 cup.<br />
From Nancy Silverton, Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2008/02/burrata_its_the.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2008/02/burrata_its_the.html</guid>
<category>Recipes</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:15:00 -0800</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>Super snacking: Chefs open up their playbooks to help you score with your Super Bowl spread</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/30_super_football_500.jpg" width="500" height="333" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></p>

<p><strong>BY NATALIE HAUGHTON<br />
DAILY NEWS FOOD EDITOR</strong></p>

<p>Super Bowl for many is an excuse to pig out. But beyond the traditional snacks, L.A. chefs will be serving up hearty flavor with a twist when they invite the crowd to watch the game. Here's what's on the menu for Sunday's Super Bowl XLII.<br />
<big><br />
<strong>Chef:</strong> Ben Ford</big><br />
<big><strong>Restaurant:</strong> Owner of Ford's Filling Station, Culver City</big></p>

<p>"This is not a healthy day," admits Ford. In between catching the game, Ford will be serving his regular menu along with a few fun things to eat … like peel-and-eat shrimp, country ham and biscuits, and kobe corn dogs.</p>

<p>"I'll buy the kobe hot dogs from the Internet and dip them in corn batter. For me that is more of a joke than anything else." </p>

<p>Over the years, Ford, who grew up in the Hollywood Hills (his father is actor Harrison Ford), has had Super Bowl parties at home … and is famous for his barbecues.</p>

<p>"I generally do that because it keeps everything (the mess) out of the house and cleaner. It's all about meat … barbecuing flat irons, grilled corn. We would also have duck taquitos … shredded meat rolled in a tortilla and fried in a skillet with just a bit of oil to cover," served with guacamole.</p>

<p>"My guacamole is absolutely legendary. My secret is the green taco sauce (he won't divulge the brand) along with garlic, avocado, salt, pepper, cilantro and serrano peppers … they have more flavor than jalapenos."</p>

<p>It's good with his fresh homemade tortilla chips and truffled potato chips (homemade chips tossed with truffle oil). "Everything I do is homemade," he says, noting that once he threw away all the condiments in his fridge. "If I can't make it myself, I couldn't have it." But the Hunt's ketchup, Colman's mustard and others soon returned. </p>

<p>White bean hummus dip, made with cannellini or white Northern beans, is also traditional with pita bread or veggies.</p>

<p>Although the restaurant serves one beer made to Ford's specs, "I would drink a Pyramid Hefferweisen or a Pilsner Urquell" at a home Bowl party.</p>

<p>For dessert, "pull out the handcrank ice cream machine … and let guests crank the ice cream."</p>

<p><big><strong>Chef:</strong> Dan Gordon<br />
<strong>Restaurant:</strong> Co-founder of San Jose-based Gordon Biersch Brewing Co. and Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Group (which owns 25 restaurants throughout the country, including Pasadena and Burbank)</big></p>

<p>When Dan Gordon has an at-home sports party or goes to friends' homes for one, "Everyone has come to expect two things. One … that I bring a lot of Gordon Biersch beer or have it on hand at home. And two is that I make garlic fries." </p>

<p>These are the addictive fries (tossed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, kosher salt and pepper) with a cult-like following that the company sells in 32 concession stands in stadiums/venues (including Dodger Stadium for almost a decade) around the country. </p>

<p>But Gordon's killer signature recipe is Marzen (beer) barbecue sauce ribs, which he's been making for two decades and will be serving Sunday when 20 friends and neighbors gather at his Redwood City home. </p>

<p>They are easy to make … and the prep work (braising the ribs in beer and water; making the barbecue sauce and marinating the two together overnight in the fridge) can be completed a day in advance. Before serving, "grill the ribs to caramelize the barbecue sauce … 10 minutes over extremely high heat, dunking in barbecue sauce a couple of times while grilling. I use baby back pork ribs and generally cut the rack (slab) into thirds before cooking, to fit into the pot. You can use the same recipe for beef ribs, but you'll need to add another hour of braising time." </p>

<p>Other party offerings will include tzatziki, hummus, guacamole, flat bread, tortilla chips, grilled naan bread and fresh veggies along with pistachios and cashews for munching and homemade brownies and chocolate chip cookies for dessert.</p>

<p>And of course several beers will be on hand. Although the company makes five different German-style lager beers … Marzen, Pilsner, Blonde Bock, Hefeweizen and Winter Bock (until March) … all available in supermarkets … Gordon recommends Marzen (auburn in color with a rich, smooth, malty flavor) and Blonde Bock (a deep golden color with a smooth rich flavor profile) for Super Bowl events.</p>

<p>"Both are thirst quenching and have big flavor that will complement and not overwhelm delicate flavor profiles in accompanying dishes." </p>

<p>Figure an average of three beers per person. </p>

<p><big><strong>Chef:</strong> Tom Colicchio<br />
<strong>Restaurant: </strong>Owner of Craft (Los Angeles, New York) and various restaurants around the country</big> </p>

<p>For a twist on traditional party sub sandwiches, Tom Colicchio suggests a no-fuss panini bar.</p>

<p>"Panini parties are great because your guests can be their own chef and create a sandwich to their liking."</p>

<p>Set out an assortment of cold cuts, cooked chicken, turkey, pastrami and roast beef slices, roasted red peppers, a medley of different cheeses (including buffalo mozzarella), vegetables and breads, fresh herbs including basil leaves … and condiments like tapenade, mustards, dressings and jarred sauces along with a couple of panini grills.</p>

<p><big><big><strong>RECIPES</strong></big></big></p>

<p><big><strong>BEN FORD'S WHITE BEAN HUMMUS</strong></big><br />
1 cup canned cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained<br />
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary<br />
1 tablespoon white vinegar<br />
1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />
1 tablespoon tahini<br />
1 tablespoon roasted garlic<br />
1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil<br />
Chopped fresh oregano (optional)<br />
In a food processor, combine beans, rosemary, vinegar, lemon juice, tahini, garlic and olive oil. Cover and process until smooth. Sprinkle with oregano, if desired. Serve with pita bread pieces or fresh vegetables. Recipe can be doubled, if desired.<br />
<em>From Ben Ford.</p>

<p></em><big><strong>MONTEREY JACK AND BLUE CHEESE FOOTBALL</strong></big><br />
2/3 cup (6 ounces) cream cheese<br />
2 to 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />
1/4 teaspoon salt<br />
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper<br />
2 cups (8 ounces) grated Monterey Jack cheese<br />
2 cups (8 ounces) crumbled blue cheese<br />
1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted<br />
2/3 cup coarsely crushed rye crackers</p>

<p>In a large bowl or food processor, combine cream cheese, garlic, salt and cayenne pepper. Beat or process until blended and smooth. Add Jack and blue cheeses as well as walnuts, and beat vigorously until ingredients are well mixed. If using a food processor, be careful not to over-mix; cheese should retain some of its texture. Refrigerate mixture 2 to 3 hours for easiest shaping. </p>

<p>An hour or two before serving, spread cracker crumbs on a large plate or sheet of waxed paper. Dampen your hands with water to keep the cheese mixture from sticking to them. Pat and press mixture into a football shape. Pat on cracker crumbs, pressing gently so crackers stick. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill until ready to serve. Just before serving, decorate cheese football with laces made from sour cream. Spoon sour cream into a plastic sandwich bag and snip the corner. Gently squeeze out and pipe sour cream on cheese football to simulate laces. Serve with crackers. Makes 1 cheese football.</p>

<p><big><strong>ZIPPY GUACAMOLE<br />
</strong></big>4 ripe, fresh large Hass avocados, peeled and pitted <br />
2 lemons, juiced <br />
2 teaspoons minced garlic <br />
1 tomato, diced <br />
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro<br />
1/4 cup diced red onion<br />
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin<br />
5 jalapeño OR serrano chiles, minced (3 of the chiles seeded) <br />
Salt and chile powder, to taste</p>

<p>In a large bowl, coarsely mash avocados and combine with lemon juice. Add remaining ingredients to the avocado mixture, stirring carefully until combined. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Serve with tortilla chips. Makes 8 servings.</p>

<p><big><strong>FAST CHILI</strong></big><br />
1 pound lean ground beef<br />
1 onion, chopped<br />
1 garlic clove, crushed <br />
2 tablespoons chili powder<br />
1 tablespoon ground cumin<br />
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained<br />
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste<br />
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce<br />
2 (15-ounce) cans kidney OR black bean, drained and rinsed well</p>

<p>In a large pot, cook beef with onions, until beef is browned and in small pieces; drain off any excess liquid. Add garlic, chili powder, cumin, tomatoes, tomato paste and tomato sauce; mix well. Stir in beans. Heat to boiling, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve garnished with sour cream, shredded Cheddar cheese, chopped tomatoes, jalapeno slices, etc., if desired. Makes 6 servings.</p>

<p>NOTE: Recipe can easily be doubled or tripled.</p>

<p><big><strong>BUFFALO CHICKEN PANINI</strong></big><br />
4 tablespoons Blue Cheese Dressing<br />
2 slices 7-grain bread <br />
4 thin slices (4 ounces) breast of chicken (seasoned Buffalo style)<br />
2 tablespoons watercress<br />
1/2 stalk celery, chopped<br />
2 tablespoons chopped walnuts</p>

<p>Spread blue cheese dressing evenly on top and bottom slice of bread. Layer chicken, watercress, celery and walnuts and close sandwich. Heat your Panini maker or sandwich press. Butter each side of the press. Place the sandwich inside, press down and grill until e bread is flat and browned, about 10 minutes. Serve warm. Makes 1 sandwich. </p>

<p>BLUE CHEESE DRESSING: Combine 1/2 cup blue cheese (mild), crumbled, 2 tablespoons buttermilk, 1 tablespoon crème fraîche, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper to taste, mixing to a chunky consistency. Makes enough for 2 sandwiches.<br />
<em>From Tom Colicchio.</p>

<p></em><big><strong>GORDON BIERSCH MÄRZEN BBQ SAUCE RIBS</strong></big> <br />
5 pounds baby back pork ribs, each slab cut into thirds<br />
3 (12-ounce) bottles Gordon Biersch Marzen beer<br />
4 1/2 cups water<br />
Barbecue Sauce</p>

<p>Place ribs in a very large pot. Cover with Marzen beer and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Turn off heat and let ribs cool to warm temperature. </p>

<p>Meanwhile prepare Barbecue Sauce and set aside. When ribs are cool, drain off and discard liquid. In a large container, pour all of Barbecue Sauce over ribs and marinate in refrigerator a couple of hours or overnight.</p>

<p>To finish, grill ribs over high flame until the sauce has caramelized on the outside of the ribs. Dip in the Barbecue Sauce remaining in the container a couple of times while grilling. Total grilling time is about 5 minutes per side. Serve with additional barbecue sauce, if desired. Makes about 4 to 6 servings. </p>

<p>BARBECUE SAUCE: In a large pot, saute 1 large onion, chopped and 1/4 cup chopped garlic in 1/4 cup hot cooking oil until translucent. Deglaze pan with 1 (12-ounce) bottle Gordon Biersch Märzen. Stir in 1 quart of your favorite barbecue sauce (Cattlemen's brand preferred), 1/4 cup molasses and 1/4 cup pureed canned chipotle chiles (OR to taste; chipotles are hot). Heat to simmering. Simmer over low heat, uncovered, 30 to 60 minutes. Makes about 6 cups. <br />
<em>From Dan Gordon.</em></p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2008/01/super_snacking.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2008/01/super_snacking.html</guid>
<category></category>
<pubDate>Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
</item>

<item>
<title>SusieCakes comes to Calabasas</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="taste_susies_1_450.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_susies_1_450.jpg" width="450" height="373" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></span></p>

<p><strong>By Natalie Haughton<br />
Daily News Food Editor</strong></p>

<p>Brentwood bakery <strong>SusieCakes</strong> has just opened a second location in Calabasas. An old-fashioned bake shop, it specializes in an array of sentimental, classic All-American dessert favorites, including puddings, pies, brownies, bars, cookies, cakes, cupcakes and more. Among the holiday choices -- <em>seen in the photo above</em> -- are frosted, hand-decorated sugar cookies, a yule log, gingerbread houses and cookies and an eggnog cheesecake.</p>

<p>The shop also offers custom party and birthday cakes, and a selection of candles, cards and gift items. The from-scratch baked goods are made on the premises.</p>

<p>SusieCakes, 23653 Calabasas Road, Calabasas, is open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Information: (818) 591-2223 or  <a href="www.susiecakesla.com">www.susiecakesla.com</a>.</p>

<p><em>Below: A photo of the new SusieCakes in Calabasas:</em></p>

<p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="taste_susies_2_450.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_susies_2_450.jpg" width="450" height="538" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></span><br />
   </p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/susiecakes_come.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/susiecakes_come.html</guid>
<category>Bakeries</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:15:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Cool stuff: What&apos;s new in the world of food</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="taste_pears.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_pears.JPG" width="150" height="100" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;"/></form><strong>BY NATALIE HAUGHTON<br />
Daily News Food Editor</strong><br />
  <br />
<strong>GIFT FOR PEAR FANS</strong><br />
Organic Royal Riviera Pears, grown in Medford, Ore., are available from Harry & David through January and would make a great gift. They are so juicy, you can eat them with a spoon … and they taste delicious. The thin-skinned Comice pears can be eaten softened or hard. Once they arrive, keep refrigerated up to a week. A 5-pound box contains about 11 pears and is $36.95, excluding shipping; a 6-pound box is $41.95. Shipping costs vary. To order, go to <a href="http://www.harryanddavid.com">www.harryanddavid.com</a> or call (877) 322-1200. </p>

<p><img alt="taste_santa.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_santa.JPG" width="150" height="189" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></form><strong>SANTA TOTE</strong><br />
Designed to resemble Santa's red suit, this new nifty mini tote box from See's Candies is filled with lollipops, candy canes and a foil milk chocolate Santa. Good for stocking stuffers, kids of all ages or party favors. $5.75 each at See's Candies shops.</p>

<p><img alt="taste_cowgirl_3.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_cowgirl_3.JPG" width="150" height="150" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></form><strong>MORE HEAT AND SPICE</strong><br />
Idaho-based Cowgirl Chocolates, known for spicy-sweet creations, is offering some new products in time for holiday indulging. Among them are three caramel corns … Mild Chipotle Vanilla Granola, Pumpkin Spicy and Spicy Chocolate Triple Nut … along with Caramel Nut Clusters and Roasted Hazelnut Toffee. The caramel corns are the least spicy, followed by the toffee. The nut clusters, which feature caramel nut (pecans, almonds and cashews) clusters dipped in dark chocolate, are potent and HOT, flavored with habenero chiles (they are for volcano-palate customers, we were told). They are definitely not for the timid. The chocolate nut caramel corn had a bite, but it was the favorite of the three caramel corn choices. The toffee was interesting, but I prefer mine without heat and spice. Depending on the item, packages range from 4 ounces to 1 pound, nothing fancy and something fancy options, with prices from $8.95 to $26.95. To order or view the collection, go to <a href="http://www.cowgirlchocolates.com">www.cowgirlchocolates.com</a> or call (888) 882-4098.</p>

<p><img alt="taste_syrup_bear.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/taste_syrup_bear.JPG" width="100" height="181" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></form><strong>GLASS BEAR WITH MAPLE SYRUP</strong><br />
This 6-inch-tall clear glass bear, sporting a red knit hat, is filled with pure maple syrup U.S. grade A medium amber from Highland Sugar Works in Vermont would make a fun holiday food gift. Refrigerate after opening. A 16.9-fluid-ounce jar is $19.95 at Williams-Sonoma stores.   </p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/cool_stuff_what.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/cool_stuff_what.html</guid>
<category>Cool stuff</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 12:45:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>EVERYTHING GOES BETTER WITH CHOCOLATE: with recipes and book recommendations</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>By Natalie Haughton<br />
Daily News Food Editor</strong></p>

<p>Chocolate never goes out of season.</p>

<p>And the holidays are just the time to explore the explosion of premium chocolates, with more flavors than ever for baking and just plain indulging.</p>

<p>With a bunch of recently released, fashionable chocolate cookbooks, you can jazz up holiday festivities in the sweetest way … with enticing cookies, cakes, candies, pies and more.</p>

<p><img alt="choc_book_christmas.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/choc_book_christmas.JPG" width="200" height="231" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></form>Marcel Desaulniers, author and chef of "I'm Dreaming of a Chocolate Christmas" (Wiley; $29.95), can help you impress family and friends with a collection of more than 70 delectable, colorful creations. This is the 10th cookbook from Desaulniers, co-owner of The Trellis Restaurant in Williamsburg, Va., for the last 27 years, where he was also executive chef until five years ago. "This is the first book that is dessert-related that doesn't have one of my mother's recipes in it," says the sweets guru. "She is 89 and still bakes."</p>

<p>Unlike his six previous books centered on chocolate or desserts, recipes in this volume are "simple and straightforward but still loaded with 'WOW!' " he says, and some can be frozen and shipped. All were tested in a home kitchen with top-quality ingredients and equipment available in local stores.</p>

<p>While many pastry chefs temper chocolate (a melting and cooling technique used to stabilize chocolate to make it shiny), and Desaulniers has included a quick method in some of his previous cookbooks, the process is not used in this recipe compilation.</p>

<p>"Tempering, even for someone who has a culinary education, is not the easiest thing in world."</p>

<p>Desaulniers recommends melting chocolate in the microwave.</p>

<p>"For years, I wouldn't allow a microwave oven in my home, even though my wife begged for one; she doesn't cook, only makes popcorn. I melted chocolate in a double boiler."</p>

<p>Eventually he relented, and now he is a fan of microwaving, at least for this task.</p>

<p>"It is the best, quickest and safest method," he said.</p>

<p>Common directions call for using a glass bowl, uncovered, on medium power. But to be safe, because microwave ovens vary, he errs on the side of using lower power settings.</p>

<p>The book calls for mostly semisweet along with some unsweetened chocolate. "For almost all recipes, semisweet is best. It's a benchmark item most people are familiar with. I love bittersweet, personally, but for the most part you can interchange it with semisweet.</p>

<p>"Everyone's (each company's) chocolate tastes different. There are myriad chocolates one can invest money in, but if a recipe has lots of ingredients such as cream, butter, eggs, etc., a simpler straightforward chocolate is fine."</p>

<p>When buying chocolate, make sure it is real chocolate, he stresses. "Reading the ingredient list on the package is key," Desaulniers says. "The item that needs to be in chocolate is cocoa butter." If palm kernel oil or coconut oil is on the label, it's not real chocolate.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/everything_goes.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/everything_goes.html</guid>
<category>Chocolate</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 21 Dec 2007 12:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>A tasteful holiday: Natalie Haughton&apos;s top food gifts for 2007</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><b>By Natalie Haughton<br />
Daily News Food Editor</b></p>

<p>A food gift is always welcome during the holiday season … to share with family and friends, use as party fare or even indulge in alone. The best part for the gift-giver is that food items are fast and easy to pick up at the last minute .</p>

<p>You get more bang for your buck as no shipping fees are involved and you can see what you're getting. There are plenty of options at varying price points and many come prewrapped (or ask the store to wrap your selections to save time).</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_gingerbread.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_gingerbread.JPG" width="100" height="173" /><br />
<b>MINI ICED GINGERBREAD COOKIES</b><br />
These darling miniature gingerbread Christmas cookies from Isobel & Co., are made in Canada with molasses, butter, eggs, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves. They come in shapes of Christmas trees, stars, mittens, gingerbread men and snowmen and are colorfully decorated with royal icing in red, green, white, yellow, orange and black. They taste delicious and would be a good hostess gift, a fun addition to cookie platters, great to leave for Santa or a terrific stuffing stuffer. A 7.6-ounce cellophane bag tied with a red satin ribbon is $19.50 at Williams-Sonoma stores.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_tree.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_tree.JPG" width="100" height="159"/></form><br />
<b>FRESH ROSEMARY TREE</b><br />
For a stylish, small table-top holiday tree (about 14 to 16 inches in height), pick up this  tender rosemary shrub topped off with a mini gold bow. It's aromatic and can be used as a table decoration, in holiday cooking (lamb, roast meats, fish, poultry, breads, potatoes) and beyond. After Christmas, plant in your garden and it will keep on giving throughout the year. $8.49 at Trader Joe's stores in the flower section.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_biscotti.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_biscotti.JPG" width="100" height="144"/><br />
<b>COFFEE AND COOKIES</b><br />
For coffee lovers on your list, consider a festive colorful gift package with Holiday Blend Coffee (8 ounces), two chocolate-covered candy cane graham crackers and two peppermint biscotti. They are all wrapped up and tied with a red ribbon. $16.95 at Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf stores. A similar package is available for tea lovers.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_choc_snowman.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_choc_snowman.JPG" width="100" height="211"/><br />
<b>CHOCOLATE SNOWMAN</b><br />
A cute 7-inch-tall milk chocolate snowman, trimmed with a red chocolate collar, bow, button nose and hat brim, is an ideal stocking stuffer or table decoration. In a clear bag from Godiva Chocolatier, it's $15 for 8 ounces. At Godiva Boutiques at The Oaks, Thousand Oaks, Westfield Topanga, Canoga Park, Westfield Century City, Beverly Center, Glendale Galleria or other locations.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_lollipops.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_lollipops.JPG" width="100" height="116"/><br />
<b>A WHOLE LOT OF LOLLIPOPS</b><br />
For those See's Candies pop fans on your gift list, pick up the attractive Christmas tree-shaped box filled with a big bunch of butterscotch, chocolate, cafe latte and vanilla flavor lollipops. Great for any occasion, there are about 30 pops to a 1-pound 5-ounce box for $18.75. At local See's Candies shops.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_oils.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_oils.JPG" width="100" height="189"/><br />
<b>DIPPING OILS</b><br />
Dipping fresh, crusty rustic bread slices in a variety of oils is an interesting way to add flavor. Package up a duo … a bottle of Olivier Napa Valley Parmesan Dipping and Drizzling Extra Virgin Olive Oil (with toasted Parmesan cheese, garlic and herbs) and Olivier Napa Valley Pesto Dipping and Drizzling Extra Virgin Olive Oil (with basil, garlic and lemon) for a welcome gift. The oils can also be brushed or sprinkled on pan-grilled chicken, fish, meats or grilled vegetables or tossed with pasta for a change of pace. Made with California extra-virgin olive oil, the products come in 7.6-fluid-ounce glass bottles for $14.50 each. Other flavors are also available, including Blue Cheese, Greek or Fall Harvest. At Williams-Sonoma stores.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_frango.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_frango.JPG" width="100" height="81"/><br />
<b>FRANGO MINT CHOCOLATES</b><br />
For Chicago transplants or those who are partial to Frango Mints, the candies made famous by the former Marshall Field's are now available at Macy's stores in all kinds of configurations and various size boxes. A small Christmas tree box of 3 ounces of Frango Mint Chocolates is $12. A plush, soft brown moose with a green Santa cap and holding a 1.4-ounce mini box of Frango Mints is $15. Both available at Macy's stores throughout Southern California.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_cocktail_mix.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_cocktail_mix.JPG" width="100" height="150"><br />
<b>COCKTAIL MIX SAMPLER</b><br />
A fanciful gift for guys, an entertainer or a party hostess is a carton of four different fruit-infused liquid mixes that are simply blended with vodka (sold separately) for flavorful cocktails. Included are apple martini mix (with Granny Smith apple juice), cosmopolitan mix (with cranberry juice), tangerine mix (with tangerine juice) and lemon drop mix (with Meyer lemon juice). Each 12-fluid-ounce bottle of mix makes six drinks when combined with liquor. (Directions instruct to shake a cocktail shaker filled two-thirds with ice cubes with one part mix and one part vodka; strain off ice and serve in a martini glass.) You might also try the mixes with champagne and other liquors, if desired. $36 per four-pack at Williams-Sonoma stores.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_crabtree.JPG" width="100" height="68"/><br />
<b>SHORTBREAD IN GIFT TIN</b><br />
This partridge in a pear tree metal box is filled with wonderfully tender and tasty triangular, rectangular and round pieces of old-fashioned buttery shortbread. A 17.6-ounce container is $25 at Crabtree & Evelyn stores.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_sleigh.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_sleigh.JPG" width="100" height="128"/><br />
<b>A SLEIGH FULL OF GOODIES</b><br />
This metal sleigh is filled with a variety of treats including a .52-ounce box of Pirouline Chocolate Flavor Lined Wafer Rolls; a 5-ounce box of Caramel Whirls World's Finest Chocolate (smooth caramel center surrounded by creamy milk chocolate); a 2.6-ounce box of Walkers Chocolate Covered Toffee; a 1.25-ounce envelope of Luxe Cafe Dark Chocolate Orange Hot Cocoa; a 9-ounce package of Starbright Candy (chocolate mint-flavored hard candies); and an .85-ounce box of Lindt Lindor Truffles (milk and dark chocolate). Recycle the sleigh as a table centerpiece or decoration once the goodies are gone. Net weight is 1 pound, 3.22 ounces. $50 at Macy's.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_caramels.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_caramels.JPG" width="100" height="113"/><br />
<b>CHOCOLATE-COVERED SEA SALT CARAMELS</b><br />
Chocolate coated salted caramels continue in popularity and are as trendy as ever these days. Trader Joe's is offering salt caramels made in Ireland and enrobed in dark Belgian chocolate. Unlike some of their counterparts (with harder caramels), these buttery caramels are soft and tend to ooze out of the thick chocolate coating on the first bite. We like them best right out of the fridge as the caramel has set up a bit and is not as runny. Rich and indulgent. $4.99 per 6.3-ounce box (of 12) at Trader Joe's.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_maple_syrup.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_maple_syrup.JPG" width="100" height="181"/><br />
<b>GLASS BEAR FILLED WITH MAPLE SYRUP</b><br />
This 6-inch-tall clear glass bear, sporting a red knit hat, is filled with pure maple syrup U.S. grade A medium amber from Highland Sugar Works in Vermont. Refrigerate after opening. A 16.9-fluid-ounce jar is $19.95 at Williams-Sonoma stores.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_godiva.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_godiva.JPG" width="100" height="72"/><br />
<b>LIMITED EDITION CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES</b><br />
An indulgent box of Limited Edition Godiva Truffles is packed with two each of Gingerbread in Milk Chocolate, Eggnog in Dark Chocolate and Maple Walnut in White Chocolate truffles. The 6-piece 3.75-ounce box is $13.50. At Godiva Boutiques.</p>

<p><img alt="xmas_jolly_jelly_beans.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/xmas_jolly_jelly_beans.JPG" width="100" height="147"/><br />
<b>CHRISTMAS JOLLY JELLY BEANS</b><br />
Jolly Jelly Beans come in assorted Christmas colors and flavors. Green and red are apple flavored; white jelly beans are coconut flavored. A 10-ounce package is $9.50 at Williams-Sonoma stores.</p>

<p><b>Note: All items, except those from Trader Joe's, were from stores in the The Oaks, Thousand Oaks, but are available at the chains' other locations.<br />
 <br />
<a href="mailto:natalie.haughton@dailynews.com">natalie.haughton@dailynews.com</a> </p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/a_tasteful_holi.html</link>
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<pubDate>Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>Cool stuff: Holiday cookbook recommendations</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>By Natalie Haughton<br />
Daily News Food Editor</strong></p>

<p><img alt="cookies_sampson_book.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/assets_c/2007/12/cookies_sampson_book-thumb-100x109.jpg" width="100" height="109" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;"/></a></form><strong>"Recipe of the Week: Cookies, 52 Easy Recipes for Year-Round Baking," by Sally Sampson (Wiley; $16.95)</strong>, offers an assortment of stylish, irresistible creations. Several include color photos that make you want to bake. Tempting-sounding are Espresso Shortbread, German Chocolate Cookies, Cocoa Toffee Chunk Cookies and Almond Butter Oat Cookies to name a few.</p>

<p><img alt="mediterranean_book_shulman.JPG" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/assets_c/2007/12/mediterranean_book_shulman-thumb-100x123.jpg" width="100" height="123" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></a></form><strong>"Mediterranean Harvest," by Martha Rose Shulman (Rodale; $39.95)</strong>, features more than 500 vegetarian recipes from Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans, Greece, Turkey, the Middle East and North Africa and is a good addition for those desiring to eat vegetarian style. Her recipes, which use fresh seasonal produce and intriguing herbs and spices, will appeal to a wide range of cooks and diners. The author of more than 25 books, Shulman, who resides in L.A., includes cooking tips, a glossary of Mediterranean pantry staples and vivid descriptions of recipes and where they came from.<br />
</p>]]></description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:00:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>Cool stuff du jour -- what&apos;s new in food</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>By Natalie Haughton<br />
Daily News food editor</strong></p>

<p><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="cool_stuff_chocolate.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/cool_stuff_chocolate.jpg" width="400" height="347" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></span></p>

<p><strong>FABULOUS CHOCOLATE<br />
</strong>Here's a unique gift for your chocolate-loving friends. San Francisco-based <strong>CocoaBella Chocolate</strong>s is offering a <strong>World's Greatest Box of Chocolates</strong> featuring 18 or 38 pieces of chocolate from 15 different chocolatiers and six different countries. Owner Michael Freeman, who travels the world searching for the best chocolates, put together the box. <strong>Among pieces included are those from Christopher Elbow (United States), Michel Cluizel (France), Mary Chocolatier (Belgium), Knipschildt (United States), Amedei (Italy), Laderach (Switzerland) and more</strong>. The 18- and 38-piece boxes are $30 and $55 each respectively. Really helpful is that the box arrives with a legend inside with a color photo of each chocolate piece, the name of it, the contents and the chocolatier's name.</p>

<p>If you're in San Francisco, stop by the two shops (Union Street and Westfield San Francisco Centre on Market Street) to select from 200 chocolates in the case from 18 chocolate makers. Order the box noted above or create your own online at <a href="http://www.cocoabella.com">www.cocoabella.com</a>, or call (415) 931-6213.</p>

<p><strong>NAPKINS WITH MESSAGES</strong><br />
<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="cool_stuff_napkins.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/cool_stuff_napkins.jpg" width="300" height="260" class="mt-image-right" style="float: right; margin: 0 0 20px 20px;"/></span><strong>Happy Napkins</strong> offers two-ply folded white dinner napkins with printed feel-good messages on them that reassure, console, thank, express love or just say hi. Originally created for school-age children by a working mom who wanted to deliver a loving message to her kids in the middle of the day, they are great for gatherings of family and friends and such. Each set of 12 napkins has a different message (i.e. "When I count my blessings I count you twice," "You are one of life's best presents") and retails for around $3. Purchase online at <a href="http://www.happynapkins.com">www.happynapkins.com</a>. </p>

<p><strong>Special Lindt<br />
</strong><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="cool_stuff_lindt.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/cool_stuff_lindt.jpg" width="50" height="113" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;"/></span>Lindt is offering a variety of chocolate specialties for the holiday season. Among them are <strong>Dark Holiday Spice</strong> and <strong>70 percent Cherry & Chili bars, Dark Chocolate Peppermint Lindor Truffles</strong> (in various packages including an ornament or box), a Santa Claus or Gold Reindeer in dark, milk or white chocolates. Look for the products at Target stores. Prices vary.</p>

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<pubDate>Fri, 07 Dec 2007 09:50:34 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>More dessert books recommended by Natalie Haughton</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>(This list of notable dessert books ran in the LA.com section of the Daily News with Natalie Haughton's story on Spago pastry chef Sherry Yard)</p>

<p>  <strong>"Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts" by Claire Clark (Whitecap Books Ltd.; $40)</strong><br />
Clark, head pastry chef at the French Laundry in Yountville, celebrates a career in baking that spans three decades in this, her first book. The recipes are her treasured favorites from her last 25 years as a pastry cook … and run the gamut from those of her childhood to some from top-rated London restaurants and hotels where she's worked. She's loved to bake since her youth, growing up in the suburbs of London. The ingredient amounts are in grams/ounces so if you don't have a scale, this may not be the book for you. Also, many have very lengthy directions.</p>

<p><strong>"Pure Dessert: True Flavors, Inspiring Ingredients and Simple Recipes" by Alice Medrich (Artisan; $35)</strong><br />
The former owner of Cocolat, a dessert shop in Berkeley in the '70s, Medrich has been sharing desserts and teaching for 30 years. ``Pure desserts are for busy people who love food and care about what they eat, for people who are curious and open to new tastes, and for those who appreciate the details that make the difference between a good dessert and a great one,'' says Medrich. Included are 150 recipes (several look easy and doable), many with beautiful color photos that make you want to rush into the kitchen.</p>

<p><strong>"Elizabeth Falkner's Demolition Desserts: Recipes From Citizen Cake" (Ten Speed Press; $35)</strong><br />
Falkner, owner of Citizen Cake, Citizen Cupcake and Orson in San Francisco, who's been called a "rock star of the pastry world," defies tradition and shares her cutting-edge desserts, including cookies, brownies, cupcakes and plated sweet creations, in this volume filled with gorgeous color photographs. All recipes have been adapted for the home kitchen.</p>

<p><strong>"The Art of the Dessert" by Ann Amernick with Margie Litman (Wiley; $40)</strong><br />
   Formerly an assistant pastry chef at the White House, Amernick is currently executive pastry chef and co-owner of Palena restaurant in Washington, D.C. Her signature style combines stylish special-occasion baking with a homemade touch in the 100 recipes in this book with 16 color photographs. Many appear complicated or have several components, but she shares her baking tricks in the first chapter.</p>

<p><strong>"A Passion for Baking" by Marcy Goldman (Oxmoor House; $29.95)</strong><br />
This book overflows with more than 200 baked items … desserts, breads, cookies and such … from Goldman, a professional pastry chef and passionate home baker, who inspires home cooks to celebrate, nourish and have fun. Recipes run the gamut from easy to more time-consuming, and ingredient lists range from short to lengthy. </p>

<p><strong>"The Pastry Queen Christmas, Big-Hearted Holiday Entertaining, Texas Style" by Rebecca Rather with Alison Oresman (Ten Speed Press; $32.50)</strong><br />
Native Texan and proprietor of the Rather Sweet Bakery and Cafe along with Rather restaurant in Fredericksburg, Texas, Rathershares 95 recipes for more than just desserts in this volume. Among the show-off desserts from this pastry chef are Glazed Chocolate Pave, Chocolate Cookie Crusted Eggnog Cheesecake and Aunt Milbry's Fruitcake.<br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><strong>-- Natalie Haughton</strong></div><br />
   </p>]]></description>
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<pubDate>Wed, 05 Dec 2007 20:05:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>Sherry Yard -- an unlikely master of pastry</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><br />
<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><img alt="desserts_sherry_yard_1.jpg" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/tabletalk/desserts_sherry_yard_1.jpg" width="400" height="598" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;"/></span><br />
<em>Above, Sherry Yard shows how it's done at Spago in Beverly Hills. Photo by Michael Owen Baker/Los Angeles Daily News</em></p>

<p><strong>BY NATALIE HAUGHTON, Food Editor</p>

<p></strong>It's <em>the </em>year for dessert cookbooks written by pastry chefs.</p>

<p>   To be part of the world of these dessert mavens, open their books (see accompanying list), start baking and indulge. Designed for amateurs as well as professionals, you'll find a wealth of dazzling treats that will impress guests and friends this holiday season and beyond. </p>

<p>   In "Desserts by the Yard: From Brooklyn to Beverly Hills … Recipes From the Sweetest Life Ever"' (Houghton Mifflin; $35.95), Los Angeles' top pastry queen and dessert superstar Sherry Yard, the executive pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck Worldwide (including Spago, Cut, Chinois and other fine dining establishments throughout the country), includes 150 recipes. They range from the homey sweets of her youth to exquisite Oscar party masterpieces. </p>

<p>   "The whole book is all one big memory of my life and desserts," says Yard. "My first book taught people how to bake, and this one has all my secret recipes." Many she has made over the years have been revised and updated. "Years ago, pastries used to be too sweet. I've cut down on the sugar."</p>

<p>   Several are simple and easy and can be duplicated with success by any home cook. For starters, try the mini No-Bake Cheesecakes, Cafe Glace or Quintessential Chocolate Chip Cookies.</p>

<p>   Yard shares fun reads about stints in the pastry line at the Rainbow Room in New York, as a pastry assistant at New York's Montrachet, pastry chef at Campton Place Hotel in San Francisco and Catahoula in Calistoga before landing at Spago in 1994. The book is also filled with stories about her travel escapades and baking for the rich and famous. </p>

<p>   "We bake 250 desserts, minimum, a day at Spago Beverly Hills … and that's close to 75,0000 to 90,000 desserts a year," she notes, adding that the most popular are Kaiserschmarren, a 12-layer Flourless Chocolate Dobos Torte, Apple Strudel and a Lemon Souffle Tart.</p>

<p>   Yard's love affair with desserts began in her childhood years, growing up in Brooklyn. For special occasions, the family (her parents and three sisters) ordered bakery cakes.</p>

<p>   "I have almost no memory of homemade desserts since my mother didn't bake and did not like to cook. We rarely even had dessert other than store-bought cookies."</p>

<p>   But the favorite desserts of her youth, she recalls, included toasted almond ice cream bars from the Good Humor truck, Thin Mint Girl Scout cookies, chocolate-covered cherries and blackout cake … all re-created in some form in the book.</p>

<p>   "If I had a choice of a hamburger or a piece of cake on the table, I would go for a piece of cake first," says the enthusiastic 43-year-old, with a laugh. "I could live on pastries alone … and bread. I love ice cream (stracciatella), fruit desserts."</p>

<p>   But what is Sherry Yard's recipe for such resounding success?</p>

<p>   "I wanted to be a great pastry chef. But getting here was not easy," she says</p>

<p>   She left home without much money and followed her dream. There were financial challenges, living far away from her family on the East Coast, and working long, exhausting hours. But it paid off and has brought her numerous awards, rewards, fame and good fortune.</p>

<p>   "I think I am a dessert chef, not a pastry chef per se, because I consider every part of the meal which leads up to the dessert. I create a balance in the meal." </p>

<p>   Most fun about her job is "licking the bowls and beaters clean, which I still do." </p>

<p>   The worst and best parts relate to her wardrobe. "You never have to worry about what to wear … it's always the same thing … a uniform. Your form of expression is in the food."</p>

<p>   For home cooks, she passes out a few tips. Measure ingredients out in advance … and make components of desserts (i.e. tart shells) ahead. "Don't be afraid to give your pastry and cookies color (when baking)." Use a slightly hotter oven, if necessary. Use good-quality chocolate … Scharffen Berger, Callebaut, Valrhona or Guittard. </p>

<p>   "We double sift (the flour) no matter what at the restaurant. For home cooks, it doesn't take that much effort to do, but whisk it if you don't have a sifter." </p>

<p>   These days, you'll find Yard traveling 20 percent of the time overseeing the pastries at various Puck restaurant locations throughout the United States … including Chicago; Detroit; Las Vegas; Washington, D.C.; Maui and more.</p>

<p>   She recently returned from the newly opened Spago at the Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch in Vail, Colo. "It was most challenging because at 8,000 feet up, every recipe needed to be reformulated … all leavening decreased and baking temperatures increased."</p>

<p>   When it comes to food, "Never deny yourself anything," she says. Yard is a stickler for the freshest, best-quality in-season fruits, chocolate and other ingredients. </p>

<p>   "You taste with your eyes first, so presentation should always be lush." </p>

<p><strong>RECIPES</strong>   </p>

<p>   Recipes are from "Desserts by the Yard: From Brooklyn to Beverly Hills … Recipes From the Sweetest Life Ever," by Sherry Yard:</p>

<p><strong>NO-BAKE CHEESECAKES</strong><br />
   Yard has refined these by making the little crusts out of vanilla cookie crumbs instead of whole vanilla wafers like her mother did. </p>

<p>   <strong>12 vanilla wafer cookies <br />
   1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature <br />
   1/2 cup sugar <br />
   2 tablespoons sour cream <br />
   2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice <br />
   12 ripe strawberries, hulled and halved OR quartered (depending on the size) OR fraises des bois</strong></p>

<p>   Pulse cookies in a food processor until you have crumbs. Line the cups of 2 mini muffin pans with paper liners and spoon a layer of cookie crumbs into the bottom of each. </p>

<p>   In bowl of a stand mixer, using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar at medium speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. On low speed, beat in sour cream and lemon juice until well combined, about 1 minute. Scrape down sides of bowl. </p>

<p>   Spoon or pipe filling into cups, dividing evenly. Refrigerate 2 to 4 hours, until set, or overnight. Before serving, top each cheesecake with a strawberry piece or two. Makes 24 mini cheesecakes. <br />
  <br />
<strong>SOUR CREAM TART ROYALE</strong> <br />
At lunchtime, the 65th floor of the Rainbow Room became the Rockefeller Center Club, a private members-only club. Executives from the building, much of which was occupied by NBC, loved this tart, topped with fresh fruit. Red currants are my favorite. </p>

<p>  <strong> 2 large eggs <br />
   3 tablespoons sugar <br />
   1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sour cream <br />
   1/2 cup heavy whipping cream <br />
   1 (10-inch) tart shell made with Pâte Sucrée (below), prebaked <br />
   1 pint red currants OR raspberries <br />
</strong><br />
   In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted withthe whisk attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, gently beat eggs until broken up. Beat in sugar until well combined.Beat in sour cream, then slowly add cream, beating until smooth.Line prebaked tartshell with red currants or raspberries. Pour custard over the top. Let stand for a minute, then lightly tap pan against your work surface to eliminate air pockets. </p>

<p>   Bake on rack in middle of a preheated 325-degree oven35 to 40 minutes, until the custard is set (the top should not brown). Remove from ovenand cool on a rack. (The tart can be refrigerated at this point, if desired, up to 1 day, tightly wrapped.) Serve chilled or at room temperature. Makes 1 (10-inch) tart. </p>

<p>   <strong>PATE SUCREE (SWEET PASTRY):</strong> Combine 2 1/2 cups all-purposeflour and 3/4 cup powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Beat on low speed 1 minute. Add 8 ounces (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter,cut into 1/2-inch pieces, and beat on medium-low speed until butter pieces are barely visible, about 3 minutes. Add 2 cold largeegg yolks and beat on medium-low speed just until the dough comes together, about 1 minute. Turn machine to low and stream in 2 tablespoons very cold heavy whipping cream. Stop machine and scrape down sides of bowl and paddle. Continue to beat on low speed 1 minute. </p>

<p>   Remove dough from bowl and divide into 2 equal pieces. Place each one on a piece of plastic wrap and flatten into a disc about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap tightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hoursor overnight. </p>

<p>   Place one piece of dough at a time in a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Work the dough on medium-low speed just until pliable. If you don't have a stand mixer, soften dough by pounding it with a rolling pin on a lightly floured work surface. Roll out each piece with a rolling pin on a lightly floured work surface to a 12-inch-wide, 1/4-inch-thick circle. Place between pieces of parchment paper, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours. Alternatively, line lightly sprayed pie or tart pans with dough and wrap tightly. (The dough can be stored inrefrigerator up to 3 days or in freezer for to 3 months.) </p>

<p>   To blind-bake (prebake), lightly spray 2 (9- or 10-inch) pie or tart pans with nonstick pan spray and line with dough. Prick bottom of pastry shell a few times with a fork. Line pastry with parchment paper or large coffee filters. Fill lined shell to rim with dried beans, uncooked riceor pie weights and gently press the ``faux filling'' into the corners. Bake on a rack in the lower third of a preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, carefully remove weights using a dry measure and transfer to a container. Gently pull up on the liner. If it sticks, return the covered pastry shell to the oven for another 3 minutes, or until you can easily lift off liner. Bake another 10 minutes, or until pastry is a deep golden brown. Remove from oven and allow to cool on a rack. Makes 2 (9- or 10-inch) tart or pie crusts.</p>

<p><strong>CAFE GLACE</strong></p>

<p>   <strong>1 pint vanilla bean ice cream, homemade OR store-bought, slightly softened<br />
   1/2 cup cold brewed espresso <br />
   3/4 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped to medium-stiff peaks <br />
   1 tablespoon finely shaved chocolate OR thin chocolate curls <br />
   Rolled wafer cookies (such as Pepperidge Farm Pirouette) for garnish </strong></p>

<p>   Place the bowl of a stand mixer, or a large bowl and the beaters of a hand mixer, and 6 (4-ounce) or 4 (6-ounce) cups or glasses in the freezer 30 minutes. Spoon ice cream into ice-cold mixer bowl and add espresso. Using beater, blend at low speed until smooth. Spoon into frozen cups or glasses, top with whipped cream, and sprinkle on chocolate shavings or curls. Serve immediately or place in freezer up to 4 hours. Served garnished with cookies. Makes 4 to 6.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/sherry_yard_an.html</link>
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<pubDate>Wed, 05 Dec 2007 20:00:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>Table Talk emerges from the ashes</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Come back when you're hungry.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/table_talk_emer.html</link>
<guid>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/12/table_talk_emer.html</guid>
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<pubDate>Wed, 05 Dec 2007 19:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>Fresh out of the rumor mill</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>A colleague who talked to somebody who knows something told them that there's a chance that Santa Clarita might get its own Porto's Bakery real soon. This colleague, a foodie in their own right, said that the Cuban bakery usually has a line around the block for its goodies.<br />
 <br />
Sounds good to me. Wonder if they'll have any sugar- or fat-free items?</p>

<p>And here's one bit of news that I heard from Jill Jackson, baker extraordinaire - Dessert Alert will soon have some lighter-calorie items so people trying to be good can savor her sweet concoctions. Call Jill at (661) 753-9269, or visit her Web site at dessertalert.com for online temptations.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/07/fresh_out_of_th.html</link>
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<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2007 10:41:47 -0800</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>The Westside sucks for people who hate to wait</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>So we go over the hill yesterday to enjoy a bit of time on the beach. And we've got to eat, no? Between <a href="http://drawerspace.blogspot.com">Ilene</a> and myself, we came up with a bunch of places on our long trail from Santa Monica to Venice, then to Westwood.</p>

<p>The <strong>Rose Cafe</strong> on Main Street and Rose Avenue in Venice -- too crowded.</p>

<p><strong>Baja Fresh</strong> on Main St. in Venice -- We should've followed the firemen we see at every BF and eaten there. We figured that Mani's Bakery/Restaurant might be OK by 1:30.</p>

<p><strong>Mani</strong>'s on Main Street in Santa Monica -- too crowded, and there's pretty much a free-for-all there, meaning if you spy a table, you can grab it, but otherwise you're on your own (i.e. no "host/ess")</p>

<p>The really cool looking <strong>Euphoria Loves Rawvolution</strong>, 2301 Main St., Santa Monica -- raw food mecca. Same as Mani's -- except fewer tables and no relief in site. We got a "trio" of dessertish cookies (coconut ball, truffle and nutty cookie -- all excellent) for $5. I loved the free box of food we got from Rawvolution at the Daily News months ago and would've loved more, but after miles of walking, you want to sit down when you eat a $15 sandwich -- right? F'n right. I plan to return during a non-weekend day with a pile of money.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.realfood.com/"><strong>Real Food Daily</strong></a> on Santa Monica Boulevard in Santa Monica -- too crowded (did I say I hate to wait?).</p>

<p>Then we drove homeward, stopping in front of the great <a href="http://www.nativefoods.com/">Native Foods</a> on Le Conte Ave. in Westwood. We barely missed about three street spaces, and with some film festival taking up most of the parking, packed it in.</p>

<p>So we headed back to the Valley, intending to hit the <strong>Good Earth</strong> on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, but right when we hit Fulton Avenue, Ilene had a great idea: the <a href="http://www.sharkys.com/"><strong>Sharky's</strong></a> burrito with tofu and a whole-wheat tortilla on <a href="http://www.sharkys.com/locations/locations_sherman_oaks.html">the off-the-beaten-path location</a> -- Burbank Boulevard near Fulton in Sherman Oaks/Valley Glen.</p>

<p>That's one kick-ass burrito ... with all the salsa you can use and a very fizzy soft-drink machine (diet Coke was needed to prop up one's head). As always, there were members of the uniformed legions of Los Angeles (this time the LAPD) eating at Sharky's -- if you want to know where to eat, ask a police officer or firefighter.</p>

<p>Final question. Is Santa Monica considered part of the Westside? I say yes.</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/07/the_westside_su.html</link>
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<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jul 2007 17:58:01 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>No doughnuts for me</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I went to my new favorite Starbucks (Sherman Way, just west of Sepulveda, on the way to the Daily News from Lulu's school). There was a line.</p>

<p>I had time to ponder.</p>

<p>Doughnut. Or no doughnut.</p>

<p>After Friday's three-doughnut feedfest, I vowed to cease the eating of doughnuts, but by Monday, the craving was back.</p>

<p>Sugary, sugary doughnuts.</p>

<p>As I said, I had time to think.</p>

<p>I got up to the counter.</p>

<p>"Venti drip. Dark."</p>

<p>And that was all.</p>

<p>Pray for me, O readers (all three of you).</p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/07/no_doughnuts_fo.html</link>
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<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jul 2007 09:39:40 -0800</pubDate>
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<title>Schick Center for the Control of Doughnut Eating</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I just ate two celebratory doughnuts to mark the first anniversary of <a href="http://www.insidesocal.com/outinhollywood/">Greg Hernandez's Out in Hollywood blog</a>, which he procured from Donut Queen, 19650 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana -- textbook-level glazed old-fashioned -- and then I followed them with another doughnut from the box in the photo department.</p>

<p>That makes for three doughnuts too many, so I officialy declare my enrollment in the Schick Center for the Control of Doughnut Eating.</p>

<p>Those of you who don't know what the Schick Center is -- screw y'all, you pesky youngsters. </p>]]></description>
<link>http://www.insidesocal.com/archives/tabletalk/2007/06/schick_center_f.html</link>
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<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2007 11:14:01 -0800</pubDate>
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