Endless winter: Hanging the final 10 with a 50-year celebration


Above: The first issue of Surfer magazine, in 1960, black and white and 36 pages selling for 75 cents, to promote the third movie made by John Severson called “Surf Fever.”

Entry 10, back to sofa surfing and surfing the Internet:


The book: “Surfer Magazine 50 Years”

The author: Edited by Sam George

The vital info:strong> Chronicle Books, 191 pages, $40 (released in July)

The curl: Our natural curiosity is to compare this to the copy of “The Perfect Day: 40 Years of Surfer Magazine” that’s been on our shelf awhile — five years (it’s a softbound edition that came out five years after the hardbound). They are far more complimentary than recycling material. The first, in four chapters, looks at the magazine’s body of work through the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, and focuses more on the writing that carried the magazine through those eras, with the photgraphs there as visual markers. This new version breaks the sport down over the last 50 years with five chapters on travel, who we watch, design, performance, culture and photography. The stability and influence of San Clemente-based Surfer magazine is also discussed in the forward by Shaun Tomson, who says: “These magazines have been studied as intently as the Talmud is studied by a yeshiva student, and probably with even more fervor. These journals mark moments in the life of each other … a freeze-frame of its owner’s youth. Surfer is not just a magazine but is the framework for a surfing existence.” Sam George’s intro also includes: “(Surfer) remains the most personal of publications, inexorably bent to the creative will of an eclectic parade of editors and contributing writers.”

The excerpts: Page 50-51, a giant quote from the late Andy Irons, from a March, 2009 story, next to a photo of him carrying a board that just broke in half: “I just want to fall in love with the sport that gave me everything.”

Page 60: Top 10 male surfers whose names sound like porn stars: “1. Nick Wood, 2. Pete Rocky, 3. Love Hodel, 4. Taylor Steele, 5. Damien Hardman, 6. Bonga Perkins, 7. Wingnut, 8. Buzzy Kerbox, 9. Alex Cox, 10. Shane Stoneman.” And the top 5 female surfers: “1. Daize Shayne, 2. Vernoica Kay, 3. Gidget, 4. Kylie Webb, 5. Kim Hamrock.”


Page 122: The Top 10 surfers of all time: 1. Kelly Slater, 2. Laird Hamilton, 3. Gerry Lopez, 4. Nat Young, 5. Layne Beachley (the only woman in this list), 6. Tom Curren, 7. Shaun Tomson, 8. Mark Richards, 9. Tom Carroll, 10. Andy Irons.

Page 124: Ben Marcus writes about his times nera Half Moon Bay: “Toward the end of the ’70s I bought a hot dog wagon on the beach in Santa Cruz called Surfer Dog. i had a concession with the State Parks Department to sell hot dogs and cold drinks on a beach that was called Twin Lakes Beach, Seabright Beach or Castle Beach, depending on who you talked to. Surfer Dog was a good business. … Whenever I hear Van Halen’s ‘Jamie’s Crying,’ I can smell the mustard and the Coppertone.”

Page 145, from a Surfer editorial by John Severson called “The Sign of the Kook” in 1963: “The simple message of this editorial is that obnoxious behavior, seedy appearance or badges and symbols don’t make the surfer. By his fellow surfer he may be laughed at or looked down upon, while at the same time he is creating a bad image in the eyes of the public. Don’t be a badge wearer — be a surfer.”

Find it: On Amazon and Powells, plus the publisher’s website.


By Clark Little for Surfer Magazine, pages 188-189.

The previous nine books reviewed and celebrated:
== “Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave”
(linked here)
== “The History of Surfing” (linked here)
== “LeRoy Grannis: Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s, 25th Anniversary Edition”
(linked here)
== “Sweetness and Blood: How Surfing Spread from Hawaii and California to the Rest of the World, with Some Unexpected Results” (linked here)
== “The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean” (linked here)
== “The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke” (linked here)
== “Some Like It Cold: A Sheboygan Surfin’ Safari” (linked here)
== “Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginners and Amateur Surfers” (linked here)
== “Ultimate Surfing Adventures: 100 Extraordinary Experiences in the Waves” (linked here)

Facebook Twitter Plusone Digg Reddit Stumbleupon Tumblr Email